Have you tried a residual pressure valve for the rear? When i had rear drums
I used a Wilwood 10 psi residual pressure valve. A RPV won't change the bias,
but will keep the wheel cylinders from retracting so far, so that the rear
brakes come in sooner. Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
From: steve <colordog.1@earthlink.net>
To: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Dialing in more rear brakes
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 14:46:22 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Friends,
I've recently added dual-circuit brakes with a Tilton balance bar assembly to
my TR3 and I can't seem to get enough rear brakes. I'm looking for some
advice.
Here's what I have done so far:
Installed balance bar with front and rear Master Cyl's 2.5" apart. The
pushrods are parallel to each other. Both Master Cyl's were .750 I'm not
running any residual pressure valves.
The pedal felt like a brick so I switched to two .625 MC's. The pedal feel
was much better but still, even with the adjustment to full rear, the rears
were barely starting to drag when the fronts were biting.
I switched the rear Cyl to .700 and, same thing. The rears just start to hook
up when the fronts can not be turned by hand.
Next, I switched the rear cyl to .750 and it feels the same. All of my
testing is up on jackstands in the garage. I'm racing next weekend.
I've played with adjusting the pushrod lengths so that the balance bar is
parallel during full braking as illustrated in the Tilton instruction sheet.
Overall, the brakes work well but I can't figure this one out on my own.
Any ideas?
~STEVE
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