On ****street**** cars, with the less expensive conversions using very short
shocks, the biggest thing is the way the lower part of the shock connects to
the trailing arm. As the suspension goes through its range of motion, a lot
of side deflection (angle change) goes on and the place on the trailing arm
where the shock bolts on isn't designed for that and breaks off. Note that
the same basic design is used on the 2000/2500/2.5 PI sedans and Stag BUT with
a much longer shock to reduce the angle change. It works just fine.
Jamie Palmer
On Jun 19, 2013, at 5:11 PM, toodamnfunky@comcast.net wrote:
> The trailing arms are pretty tough. The only place I could even imagine
them
> cracking would be at the spring
>
> seat area but even there it would take some sort of casting defect. I
wouldn't
> sweat it.
>
> jim g
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> From: "sherry robyn" <sherryjimmy6116@att.net>
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2013 3:12:19 PM
> Subject: [Fot] How likely is cracking a trailing arm on a TR6?
>
> I have regular height stiffer springs, rear sway bar, stock soft bushings
in
> trailing arm and diff (with cups on diff mounts), frame strengthening in
> certain areas, and red Konis (soft bushings) with the conversion tied into
the
> roll cage. B I currently have the Konis set on the second to the stiffest
> setting. B I backed off the stiffest setting for the Konis due to talk of
the
> trailing arm cracking. B I am just wondering if I can go to the stiffest
> setting on the Konis without much worry. B Any thoughts would be
appreciated.
> Thanks, Jim
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