*Never be beaten by equipment.*
> I was probably the first to turn the upper "A" arm fulcrum around back
> in 1958 trying to get some negative camber. This move does not give
> enough change in the camber. You just about have the wheel straight up
> only, eleminating the factory setting of positive camber.
> In the end I had to bend the verticle link to get the desired two
> degrees negative. I describe several other methods of achieving a
> negative camber in my first book, the Triumph Preparation Handbook,
> try pages 202-205 for some more information..
>
> *Never be beaten by equipment.*
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 10, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Larry Young <cartravel@pobox.com
>
> It seems like it would be difficult to get enough change in camber
> for a TR3/4 by reversing the fulcrum. The factory spec is +2
> degrees, so it takes quite a lot to get to -2. Lowering helps a
> little, less than 1/2 degree. If you shorten the upper A arms as
> many of us have done, you have to remove at least 1/2 inch. I wrote
> a short report when I studied the suspension on my TR3 (see
> http://tildentechnologies.com/downloads/TRsuspension.PDF). There is
> a neat way to shorten the upper A arms that I discovered from Bob
> Kramer that does not involve cutting them in two. I can put up a
> photo if anyone is interested in it. The modification is not
> obvious for organizations that do not permit Heim joints, etc.
> Larry
>
> On 3/9/2013 1:14 PM, Tony Drews wrote:
>
> What Richard Good just described for the TR-6 applies to the
> TR-4 as well.
>
> Tony
>
> Richard's message if you missed it:
> "Reversing the upper fulcrum from factory orientation pulls the
> control arms in 1/4" and adds about 1.3 degrees negative camber
> if I remember my calculations correctly. You can do it without
> removing the control arms from the fulcrum. Just remove the four
> bolts holding the fulcrum to the tower and the two bolts through
> the ball joint and remove the whole assembly. Then hold the
> fulcrum and spin the control arms 180 degrees then bolt the
> whole assembly on the other side of the car. This keeps the
> front control arm in the front but reverses the fulcrum.
>
> Preferred camber will depend on the tires. The Hoosier A6's
> that I run for autocross and hillclimb want 3 degrees. They are
> 225/45-15 on 7" rims. To get that much camber and to keep the
> tires clear of my unmodified fenders I reversed the fulcrums and
> then slotted the bolt holes to slide them in even further. I
> just took the worn out tires off and the fronts wore fairly
> even. The rears were also set at 3 degrees but wore more on the
> inside from squatting under power. I backed it off to 2 degrees
> to see how that works out. Also changed to a slightly stiffer
> spring."
>
> At 11:22 PM 3/8/2013, Jon Gannaway wrote:
>
> I am preparing a 1964 tr4 to vintage race in California. I
> am looking for
> simple and easy ways to get negative camber in the car.
> Any suggestions
> would be helpful.
>
> Jon Gannaway
> 831-402-4080
>
>
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