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Re: [Fot] TR2 Cylinder Head Studs

To: "mhado@att.net" <mhado@att.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR2 Cylinder Head Studs
From: Bob Kramer <rkramer3@austin.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 20:21:07 -0600
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Cc: "<fot@autox.team.net>" <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <009b01cddd82$8d94ab30$a8be0190$@att.net>
I don't know about the Helicoil option. You might be able to convert the
"hole" to a short stud with a Helicoil but it may stress the block improperly.
FWIW I took apart one block that had a long stud drilled and tapped at the
bottom through the block and locked in place that way. It was also drilled for
a set screw from the side. It wasn't a running engine but it looked like it
had worked.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 18, 2012, at 6:48 PM, "M&M Hado" <mhado@att.net> wrote:

> I was just finishing up a TR2 engine rebuild and one of the 9.5" studs
> stripped the threads in the block at the bottom of the 4" hole when I got
to
> about 70 ft-lb.  Has anyone successfully put a HeliCoil at the bottom of
> this hole?
>
> The original size of the hole in the block is about 17/32" (just enough to
> accommodate the 1/2" stud, of course) and this happens to be the tap drill
> size for the 1/2-13 HeliCoil.  The OD of the HeliCoil itself is about .615"
> so that means I would have to drill out the hole in the block to something
> larger than this - say 5/8" and save about an inch at the bottom for
tapping
> for the HeliCoil.  I'm wondering if there is enough meat in the block to
> drill out the hole to 5/8".
>
> Having gone this far, I really would like to save this block so any
> ideas/hints/experience would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Hado
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