I have helicoils in all the short bolt studs holes on most of my
engines--I do it to the outer four as a matter of practice, since the
they tend to have cracks leading into the pushrod tunnels or
elsewhere. Greg Solow has slightly longer studs available with longer
threads that require a little drilling and using a bottoming tap on
the existing hole. One of my engines has these as well as helicoils.
The Helicoils WILL handle the torque, but in the future I will use
Timeserts, or keyserts, or any of the solid thread repair options. I
like the look of the time serts best, but they require the most
tooling. Keyserts are very good and they won't turn out. You use a
standard tap for them in the smaller sizes, I'm not sure what they use
for 1/2 inch, I'd suspect 9/16 but it might be something odd like 17/32"
On Aug 10, 2009, at 10:19 AM, Don Elliott wrote:
> A good friend here in Montreal is re-building the engine for
> his TR3A (used for touring) and found that the threads in the top of
> the block where the rear RHS head stud is supposed to secure the
> head has been stripped of its threads.
>
> He would like to know what is the best option to solving this
> problem. He is concerned that a heli-coil may not take the torque.
> Also a larger stepped stud, specially manufactured means a larger
> threaded hole in the block (like the heli-coil as well) and he is
> concerned that he may hit a water passage with both of these options.
>
> Any proven suggestions ?
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