I have the same problem on my TR6 header and use studs. It's a pain to do
but I have to tighten the stud nuts a little at a time as I draw the header
up to the head. I also have a wrapped header (not shown in attached
picture) and PI which makes it even more difficult. I have the little
footballs as I call them and I use brass nuts also and have never had it
come loose. I also use the heavy duty gasket.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: "Steven Preiss" <spreiss@verizon.net>
Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Exhaust header bolts
> On Tue, 14 Oct 2008, Steven Preiss wrote:
>
>> That is your problem. Use studs ans nuts. Do not use bolts.
>> SP
>
> Hmmm... with my setup(s), I can't get use studs / nuts on the #1 ex lower
> fastener and at least one more (maybe #3 lower). So I HAVE to use bolts.
> This is TR6 with a header. I have used Moss, Monza and Falcon. They all
> have the same interference issues.
>
> But a allen head cap screw will work fine for this app. Just torque to
> spec and then re-torque while the motor is still hot and things seem to
> hold fine. I had 20k street miles and no leaks with one car. The race car
> never seems to need any re-tightening either, but I don't sit at 6000 for
> very long (autocrosser).
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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