While we're on the topic, I have a header here for the early GT6 head
(Mk I). It might also work for the Triumph 2000 of the same vintage,
but I'm not sure about that.
Can anyone use it? I'm in Wisconsin.
Scott B.
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kas Kastner
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:47 AM
To: Robert Lang; Steven Preiss
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Exhaust header bolts
I believe the problem is this particular cylinder head is the narrow
early type for the GT-6 and has little brackets and cone washers to hold
the manifold thus using studs in some places is not possible. Drilling
the bolt heads and safety wiring is possible but a pain to do. Loctite
is this situation does not work too well because of the heat from the
exhaust.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: "Steven Preiss" <spreiss@verizon.net>
Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Exhaust header bolts
> On Tue, 14 Oct 2008, Steven Preiss wrote:
>
>> That is your problem. Use studs ans nuts. Do not use bolts.
>> SP
>
> Hmmm... with my setup(s), I can't get use studs / nuts on the #1 ex
> lower fastener and at least one more (maybe #3 lower). So I HAVE to
use bolts.
> This is TR6 with a header. I have used Moss, Monza and Falcon. They
> all have the same interference issues.
>
> But a allen head cap screw will work fine for this app. Just torque to
> spec and then re-torque while the motor is still hot and things seem
> to hold fine. I had 20k street miles and no leaks with one car. The
> race car never seems to need any re-tightening either, but I don't sit
> at 6000 for very long (autocrosser).
>
> regards,
> rml
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
> Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489
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