Interesting observations and not a word there I would dispute. I simply
went to the plastic floats and never looked back. Has anyone had a failure
with
the plastic?
Steve...I think you know that we have had more than our fair share of float
problems these past few years. In fact, Bob Wismer had more float issues
down in Sebring this past week end. We agree with the suggested modern fuel
additive issues you mentioned, but also we're convinced 'long tows' with empty
fuel bowls are a contributing factor. For what it is worth, we believe fuel
evaporates quickly from the fuel bowel and the floats bounce/rub on the post
during long tows. Bob has taken to ensuring the fuel bowls are full before he
starts any long tow. He hit some 'nasty winter' weather in route from our
shop in Wisconsin to Florida. He got stuck over twenty-four hours in
Indianapolis during a snow storm. Maybe he didn't load the bowls before
starting out
again, but he had another failure at Sebring.
Two more comments.
ONE, I bought my last replacement floats directly from Joe Curo (sp?), the
SU specialist out east. Might be too early to leap to a conclusion, but I've
had no failures with his since. The ones I purchased from Moss, Roadster
Factory, Victoria British, etc., all appear to come from the same source. The
ones from Joe are distinctive (packaging, special markings, etc.).
TWO, across the pond, Bill Woodhouse was the founder of English Specials
Tornado Cars, and built the Talisman, Typhoon, and Thunder Bolt we race. He
recently sent me an article that suggests there is an issue with modern solder
(no lead), and a reaction when using it to repair floats with old solder
containing lead. It seems there is a reaction, and failure. Not sure how
that
fits in the mix, but it might explain why we've not had good luck with the
ones
we've repaired ourselves.
Bill Dentinger
PS...Did you know? Bob Wismer told me that the hotel rooms with a view in
Indianapolis are cheaper?
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