Why not use both? Myself, I like the plastigage method. Theoretically, if
you mike the crank, mike the ID of the bearings, and subtract the two you
will get the clearance.
An old time method (I learned this in 1967 in automotive school); with the
crank out of the engine and the rods removed, take the bearing shell out of
the rod, put a piece of shim stock between the cap and bearing, .001",
.002", etc., put it together on the crank and torque the assembly.Try to
rotate the rod on the crank. When the clearance is taken up by the shim, the
rod will drag. Ex. you put in .002" and the rod has turning resistance, the
clearance is .002". Sound logical? You just have to remember to take out the
shim! An old timer named Harry DeRemer taught us that years ago. He'd been
in the auto business since the 20's. Great guy.
Anyway, that's my take. Anyone agree or disagree?
Thanks, Bill Tobin Erie, PA TR6 Vintage type
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Janzen" <S.Janzen@comcast.net>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 2:18 PM
Subject: [Fot] checking bearing clearances
> One builder I know installs the bearings in the rod ends or mains, torques
the
> caps and uses an inside micrometer to check bearing clearances before
> installing the rods or crank.
> Another one swears that method is not sufficient and you have to use
> plastigauge.
> What says the group?
> _______________________________________________
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
_______________________________________________
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Fot mailing list
Fot@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
|