>>>I've been using non-synthetic 10-40 for years (street Spitfire) and he
said
I should be using 10-30.
The only engine I ever lost on the street from a bearing related issue
was while using 10W40. Usually ran 20W50, changed in the fall, then
chased the Colorado 1000 (Grand) around the state in my '76 Spitfire.
Spent quite a bit of time running flat out. In a Spitfire, your not that
afoul of the law running flat out. Survived that, but not the drive down
I-25 to Pueblo for a SCCA race. The engine started producing a hammering
noise, (which turned out to be a rod bearing cap on #3 that was coming
adrift and finally got out far enough for a bolt head to hit the block).
Oil pressure never got low enough to light the lights. Stopped, pulled
the dip stick, NOTHING on the stick, but it was not completely dry. After
getting the race event towing guy to get the car to the track, I again
pulled the dipstick. Full, to the mark. The oil got hot enough to become
thin enough to leave only a trace film on the stick. The bearing got
hammered into a multi layered thin blue band wrapped around the journal.
Some small engine manufacturers will not warranty their products if 10W40
oil is used in them.
Was my failure related to having sucked it full of water one time?
Possibly, but I have never seen any other oil get that thin in any other
application. Had to have contributed, though. I have much more faith in
10W30.
Always amazed at the difference in engine sound and power output after
changing from a SAE 40, to a 20W50, in the 2.5 L 6. Without a proper
windage in the pan, a hard braking move with SAE 40 in the pan would wrap
all the oil around the crank, bringing the engine to a halt, requiring
the better part of a minute to be restarted.
The 15W40 is a nice compromise.
Bill
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