I will have to say that I have used Greg's remade seals in at least three
street engines and in my TR3A race motor. They work!. Save your old seals and
send them to Greg.
Dean T.
>From: Greg Solow <gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com>
>Date: 2007/08/13 Mon PM 09:49:22 CDT
>To: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>,
'Friends of Triumph' <fot@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 main seal question
>The problem with the original seals is that there is excessive clearance
>between the crankshaft scroll and the alluminum housing. The factory setup
>gives .012" clearance on the diameter. That is just to much. We have been
>"remanufacturing " the seal housing and bringing the clearance down to .006"
>on the diameter. That works great on a tight engine. There is vitually no
>leakage unless the engine is reved over 6,000 rpm. At reves over 6,000 the
>crank begins to flex and it allows a little oil out. For street engines and
>mild race engines this "blueprinted" seal is the ticket as far as I am
>concerned.
> For a high RPM race engine we weld up the threaded area and have it
>remachined to the original major diameter of the threads and then remachine
>the original seal holder to use a Chrysler 383 cu in engine 2 piece rubber
>lip seal. This setup does not leak a drop at engine speed over 7200 rpm.
> With either of this seal arrangement, concentricity is very iimportant.
> We will not build and engine using the "Split one piece seal" as sold by
>Moss. I have tried them 4 times, each time it has taken 5 or 6 hours or more
>of setup to get the alloy seal holders to fit the block correctly and the
>seals have still leaked at least a little, sometimes a lot!.
>
>Greg Solow
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
>To: "'Friends of Triumph'" <fot@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 2:42 PM
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3 main seal question
>
>
>>> If the crank spins freely, what exactly keeps the
>>> pressurized oil from blowing past this circular seal?
>>
>> A minor point, the oil should not be pressurized by the time it reaches
>> that
>> seal. There is a cavity between the seal & bearing, with a drain hole
>> back
>> into the sump. Some folks have theorized that the hole isn't big enough,
>> and drilled additional holes, but I haven't seen the need myself.
>>
>> Also note that some of the rubber seal kits on the market have the wrong
>> instructions as to how small to grind the crank.
>>
>> Randall
>> (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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