The only place that my aeroquip uses the tacky and possibly dangerous
hose clamps is to connect the line to the carb. Even the aeroquip
rollover fuel cell vent line has an AN fitting. So, pretend for a
moment that I don't have the Carrol Smith books covering this... How
the hell do you attach an AN fitting to a SU carb? (of course, you
have to pretend I'm running SU's too... :) ) For the Webers, I'm
sure an appropriate fitting is available - I just need to do the
right thing and find it. At least the Webers' press on fittings have
a bulb at the end to help prevent the lines from blowing off. For
the SU's, though, the top of the float bowl is a somewhat fragile
thing. The only thing that comes to mind is to somehow remove the
tube that sticks out for the fuel line to attach to (how?), and tap
the hole for a fitting. I'm not sure that it would be stronger when
done (vibration will crack the top of the float bowl?), but I'm ready
to be convinced. (don't worry, I'm not being defensive)
- Tony
At 07:00 PM 3/15/2007, Bill Babcock wrote:
>Aeroquip lines, or any of the other stainless braid lines are
>preferable to rubber for lots of reasons, most of them involving
>flames. I cut stainless lines several different ways, but it's all
>generally the same. Wrap the line tightly in the area to be cut with
>a single wrap of duct tape, cut the line. Don't take the tape off
>until you're ready to install the line. Proceed according to the
>manufacturers instructions for installing the fitting.
>
>To cut, you can either use a very fine hacksaw and light cutting
>pressure or a very thin abrasive disk in a high speed angle grinder.
>
>Tony, you should be ashamed of yourself for using those piece of s*&t
>hose clamps. they might be cheaper than getting the right fittings,
>but one engine fire equals a lot of fittings. Carrol Smith is
>spinning in his grave just thinking about it. He used Aeroquip stuff
>on his tow rig. BTW, the best way to learn about car plumbing is
>Carrol Smiths book about car plumbing and fasteners. Buying that book
>will cost you a lot of money--not in fittings--they're relatively
>cheap, reusable and you simply don't need that many, but in Bolts and
>Nuts.
>
>Bill Babcock
>billb@bnj.com
>bnj Website for Babcock & Jenkins, a direct and interactive agency
>
>You can subscribe to my Blogs
>Via email:
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>Sub=168304
>
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>
>
>
>On Mar 15, 2007, at 2:12 PM, steve wrote:
>
> > My Dad's old TR3 arrived via Passport Transport on Monday night.
> > Each night after work, I'm out there puttering around trying to
> > tidy up the engine compartment a bit. It's in great condition but
> > I've always wanted to clean up the location of a few lines, wires,
> > etc..
> >
> > One of the things I'd like to do is to replace the 17year old
> > Aeroquip fuel lines with new stuff.
> >
> > The braided SS fuel hoses on the car were cut to length with a hack-
> > saw. Then, the prickly ends were wrapped in a few loops of black
> > tape. Over that goes a hose clamp. When I shop around online for
> > Aeroquip tubing and fittings, all the ends available seem to be
> > THREADED fittings. Is there a more elegant solution to clamp the
> > ends onto the SU carb fuel-input pipes than the hack saw, tape,
> > hose clamp method?
> >
> > Anyone use rubber fuel tubing instead of the braided line?
> >
> > ~Steve
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Fot@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
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