How much camber do you have now, and what kind of tires are you going to
run? If you're going to run bias ply tires you only want 1/2 to 1 degree
negative, and you can get away with zero. You only need that 3 degrees or so
of negative camber with radials.
You have to pay attention the other parameters that change when you shorten
or lengthen the arms. A shortened upper arm increases the camber gain and
may worsen the bump steer. Probably the simplest modification in terms of
the amount of work it requires and the minimal changes made to parts is
moving the inner upper pivot inwards. This affects the bump steer, but might
help rather than hurts it--you'd have to measure to be sure.
I also like the TR6 lower trunnion and upper ball joint. The lower trunnion
gives you three degrees of caster, which I like. Especially handy when your
steering gets disconnected at high speed. The TR6 upper ball joint is easier
to replace and seems more rugged. Of course you need to replace the upper
arms at the same time.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Mark York
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 7:07 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: TR3 Front suspension
What is the recommended and most effective way to add negative camber to the
TR3 front suspension? In Kas' book he offers 4 methods to increase negative
camber. It would seem that slotting the upper A arm to move the ball joint
in would allow for camber adjustment rather than cutting out a section out
of A arm . Are there any other methods available (keeping in mind the
"spirit" of Vintage racing)? Has anyone used later front suspension pieces
from a TR4 or TR6?
Thank you
Mark
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