Ed,
I timed the cam with a vernier gear and set the cam to the exact time the
valve should be opening i.e.: I took the opening of the intake valve, 34
degrees btdc and set the cam with a lifter in place and also added the valve
lash .018", to the timing. I am in some kind of agreement with you and I
'm considerating that as a possibility also.
Does this sound like the way to time the cam?
Charly
----- Original Message -----
From: <ejmajor@attbi.com>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Cc: "FOT" <FOT@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel starvation problem
> Your problem is one I fought last year only to find that my mechanical
timing
> was off by about 24 degrees. (I won't comment how I did that in the first
place)
> Your setup is similar to my TR250 (webers/60 over/header/etc.), We proved
it by
> using the Bentley Book method of checking the cam timing to the crank by
> setting the 11 & 12 valves to 120 thousands and getting them to the point
of
> rock (one opening one closing at the same gauge measure) at that point you
> should be at TDC. After resetting the cam timing it ran fantastic,
climbing
> right thru 6000 RPM
>
> --
> Ed Major
>
> '58 TR3A, '68 TR250
> ejmajor@attbi.com
> > I'm having a problem tuning my TR6, the motor is bored .030", the head
is
> > about 3.375 thick (compression ratio 10.25:1) and has been modified to a
> > stage 2 configuration, the pistons have been shaved to all be the same
> > height and the block decked to 0 clearance, the engine has been balanced
the
> > rods and flywheel have been lightened, I use stock pushrods with stock
> > rocker arms and spacers in place of springs, the cam is a D9 grind, the
> > distributor is a 22D that has 17 degrees stamped on the rotor and has a
> > Pertronix unit instead of points, it has a header that has long center
> > branches that go to a 2 1/2"collector & pipe and routed similarly to a
stock
> > system with a 2 1/2" Flowmaster muffler, I'm running triple DCOE 40
carbs on
> > it.
> > I can't seem to get the car to rev over 5000 rpms at load! I'm running
AV
> > 101 fuel in it, I have a double ended fuel pump on it (not SU) and a
> > pressure regulator. I seem to be able to get consistent fuel pressure
> > between 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 psi.
> > I've tried rejetting the main jets, originally they were 120, and I've
> > gone to 130 & 140, I've played around with the air correctors going from
160
> > to 150 & 140. The venturi's are 30's. I've played with the timing and
> > advanced as far as I dare and it seemed to run the best when I had the
> > advance set at about 17 degrees at idle, about 32 or 33 degrees at 4000
rpm
> > (hard to tell the exact advance with my timing light).
> > The car runs good up to about 4800 rpm and then it starts to pop through
the
> > exhaust, sounds like a misfire, and barely revs to about 5200 rpm's.
This
> > rpm reading is done with the stock tach and could be reading wrong also,
I
> > plan to find a high rpm test tach to verify my stock tach accuracy.
> > Any ideas? I keep getting stuck on the carbs, think they are running to
> > lean, but when I put in the 140 main jets, fuel was actually coming out
the
> > stacks when I went WOT!
> > Charly Mitchel
|