I did the same thing and suffered from a little softness in my brakes. I
use hard lines wherever possible and stainless where I need flexibility.
And of course, double flares. I had the same problem with the first flare
tool I bought-the od was too small. I've had better luck with the second
one. But they are still a pain in the a**.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Bownes [mailto:bownes@seiri.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 10:46 AM
To: riverside
Cc: fot
Subject: Re: brake pads and brake lines
On the race car, unless I have a damn good reason not to, *everything*
is converted to aeroquip/earls with the appropriate flare. Brakes,
clutch, etc. All brake lines are braided stainless. (Actually, any hose
is braided stainless except large radiator hoses.)
I'm slowly converting my street cars over to aeroquip and stainless
braid. But it will be a while before I attack the MR2.
riverside wrote:
> Group,
> Kris's article on brake plumbing was very useful. I have only one
> area that my own experience differs and that may be due to the
> particular double flare tool ai have used to make bubble flares. We
> have two different double flare tools in the shop from different
> manufacturers, but they produce exactly the same result, even tho the
> adapter pieces look like they should form visibly different bubles.
> In both cases, the od of the bubble is smaller than the bubble formed
> by a correct bubble flare only tool. This smaller id allows the nut
> to creep over the flare enough that there is a risk of the nut running
> into the female fittings floor at about the same time the bubble is
> getting adequately pressured against it. Also the tendency of the nut
> to spread over the bubble and thus wreck the threads of the fitting
> upon the next removal is enhanced. We use the bubble only tool
> (K-D 3482) only. A nice side benefit of the bubble formed by
> this tool is that the surface the nut engages is flat and parallel
> to the nut face it engages.
>
> art d
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