In addition to whatever advice you get...
1. Definitely use lubricants designed to break free seized bolts, etc. and let
it
sit overnight. The stuff does whick into threads and it can work miracles. I
think we're all guilty of squirting that stuff on and figuring it is just snake
oil because the bolt is still seized 5 minutes after putting it on.
2. There is a product out that you can find at a typcial car parts store that
carries LocTite and the such... a product that comes in a tube and you squeeze a
little out on the end of screws and the such to give the tool more "bite"... If
you even begin to think that your tool is starting to round off the plug, I
would
recommend buying this stuff and at the same time, buy a brand new allen wrench
is
yours is even remotely rounded. (This may just save you on the one you think
you've already damaged!)
3. Something that is often underestimated: Make sure the item (in this case
the
crank) that you're trying to loosen the bolt out of is perfectly immobilized.
A
LOT of torque is lost if you are holding the crank down by hand and you're
fighting the tool and the part at the same time.
I have absolutely NO experience with removing this particular plug so by all
means, pay closer attention to other responses! These two items just come in
mind
when dealing with seized allen bolts in the past.
--Justin Wagner
Gerald Van Vlack wrote:
> FOT, Any advise on how best to remove the TR 4 Crank Oil Passage Allen head
> plugs. I have a freshly ground crank but suspect that the oil galleries in the
> crank have not been cleaned by the grinder. Tried using the proper size Allen
> wrench but they are so tight that I may have ruined one of the plugs. Can I
> apply some heat? Impact wrench? What works; short of taking it back to the
> grinder?
> Jerry Van Vlack
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