I'm not going to try to trump Susan's excellent list ... just add a few
thoughts
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Kahler" <spitfiresuz@141.com>
>
> GT6 front suspension (bolt-in swap).
And Konis all around.
> Performance rear axles (spendy but worth it for safety -- stock rear
> axles have a bad habit of snapping at unanticipated times, especially
> with sticky tires). If not, magnaflux the rear axle assemblies before
> using.
ABSOLUTELY! She's talking about the outer axle assembly here. Stock axle
stabs through the carrier from the inside, locks the hub on via a Woodruffe
key. I've sheared that key off. Comp axles are one-piece units that stab
through the (modified) carrier from the outside.
Inner axles -- you want the fat GT6 units, NOT the thin Mk. 1-2 Spitfire
units. Those are the things that snap with regularity (I used to bust at
least one a year, usually more, just autocrossing the car).
You also want the "big" diff case. It's a stock unit, but there are two
sizes. Used units work fine. Also, make yourself a couple of new mounting
holes higher up in the frame -- as high as you can -- and mount it up there.
It lowers the car. Not sure, but since yours is presumably a Mk. III, you
may already have the big pumpkin. Maybe even the big axles too. [Mine's a
Mk. 1, so I am not all that sure what the III has different other than the
1300 engine).
Just weld up the diff. You can spend big bucks on limited slip, Quaifes
etc., but welded up works fine. I used to have a limited slip and really
liked it but just wore it out. No $$$ for another so welded up the rear.
Biggest PITA about it is pushing the car in the paddock. Works fine on the
track (race or autox). Also, when you do -- drill a big hole through it side
to side -- enough to run a punch through. Reason: even with big inner axles
you may break one occasionally, and getting the stub out is no problem if
you can punch it through from the other side. (I used to change those things
out in an hour -- but the only time I broke one after I welded up my diff it
turned into a 12-hour thrash).
> Make sure roll cage has frame attachment points -- not just to body metal.
> Accusump - plumb into oil system with one-way valve or tap into sump.
> Oil cooler.
Oil cooler, Accusump, and remote oil filter are all part of the same
project.
> Lighten the body by removing unessential stuff (windows and works,
> handbrake & works, door handles and works (you can put in a pin & clip
> to hold the doors closed), wiper and washer assemblies, etc.).
I still have the door handles. By themselves, not a significant thing once
all that window trash is out of the door.
> Good oil pressure and temperature gauges.
IMHO, oil pressure is the most important gauge. So mine is mounted in the
steering wheel support. I made a new dash plate and mounted all the other
gauges where I wanted them.
> Good tach.
I'm still happy with stock tach, but a good (reconditioned) one.
> Drain the oil from SU carb dampers and cut the plungers off.
Don't need to cut the plungers. DO drain the oil, then pull the little
c-clip at the bottom of the plunger and take off the bits and pieces there.
> Use a race driver's seat (stock seat with adjustable back is unsafe) and
A good Kirkey seat is worth the price.
> current 5- or 6-point harness.
Six-point. 5-point (Y-belt) is not legal for racing. It is legal for autox,
but the difference in price is negligible, so get the one you know will be
good for all purposes.
> Mount fuel cell in trunk (no stock gas tanks allowed).
And set it in off-center to the right -- you want weight to the right to
counterbalance the driver. An 8-gallon ATL cell works fine, but get it with
two fuel pickups, and install it with two electric fuel pumps with lines
that join at a tee into the single line to the carbs. Two pickups means you
always have fuel no matter which way you are turning.
>
> Engine:
> Check compression and make sure it is ok, and similar across the
cylinders.
> Retorque head after running engine.
This is when you are installing a new, rebuilt, etc., motor. Just give the
engine a good warmup -- water temp to 180 or so, then retorque while it is
still hot. Also not a bad idea just every now and then through the year to
do it again, but not something you need to do a whole lot. BTW, when
retorquing anything, the proper way is not just to pull the torque again,
but to undo the nut slightly and then take it back to its torque spec.
If you have stock head studs, a trick nut replacement is lugnuts. Stock
spitfire lugnuts. Same thread but more of them so they will almost never
strip out.
> Be sure to use dinosaur oil for break-in and not synthetic.
YES. Doesn't take much. My engine builder says I can just do a practice
session at a race weekend, or an autocross, and then put the synth in. You
just need to seat the rings, is all.
Synthetic in the transmission and differential too! From the get-go. No
break-in there.
> Make sure spark plugs are in correct heat range and wires are new or good.
And remember: hotter engine = colder plugs. Competition wires (like Moroso
Blue Max) may seem pricey, but it's a one-time purchase.
> When you dig into the engine the next time, there are all sorts of
> things to do to help gain hp and compression. Get the Kastner
> competition manual -- it tells you lots of good stuff.
>
> Make sure to check the transmission oil and the differential oil. Make
> sure the gear teeth look good (you can pull covers on each unit and look
> at the teeth). Check the u-joints to make sure they have no slop, or
> replace them if you can.
Don't be surprised at a bit of apparent slop in the diff. That's the spec
runout between the pinion and the ring bearing.
> You will need a fully-covered battery box --
> mine is in the passenger floorboard for weight equalizing (remove
> passenger seat).
Mine is on the shelf behind the seat, extreme right side. That battery
location under the hood has a tendency to rust out (and that spot is also a
dandy place to put the required overflow tank). I have the accusump on the
floor where I can reach it belted in, and my on--board fire extinguisher
system is in the footwell.
> Do NOT skimp on a helmet. Make sure to get SA (Special Auto -- rated
> for multiple impacts) and not M (Motorcycle). Think of how much you
> value your head and then buy a helmet accordingly. Try
> www.racerwholesale.com.
With modern helmets, there is little difference in quality between M and SA
(there is more difference in quality between manfacturers, so buy from a
manufacturer whose name you trust). A primary difference is Nomex lining in
the SA helmets these days. BUT, if you ever plan to race in the next
decade, get the SA. The M helmets are legal for autocross, NOT legal for
race.
> This is all I can think of at the moment. Please feel free to contact
> me if you have other questions!
>
> Keep Triumphing,
> Susan :)
> #42 FP Spitfire Tristan
The biggest initial expense to pop for is a good set of 6" wheels. You can't
fit any decent tires on stock wheels. You are looking for not only .the 6"
width, but also light weight (there are a LOT of pretty wheels out there
that are heavy as hell -- you want performance, not looks, but the good
performance wheels do look good too.). You need to find out the proper
backspacing for them as whoever you order from will need that info.
Tires -- you basically have two choices, Hoosier or Goodyear. I like
Hoosiers. Get the R43 compound. There are softer compounds available, but
the new R43 is really a good all-purpose slick. It's a cantilever 20x8x13
tire with Kevlar belts that really works well.
Then, find out all you can about suspension setup and work that part of the
car. It mostly is not all THAT expensive (compared to engine) and once done
will seldom have to be re-done for years. That bone-stock engine may not be
all that fast down the straight, but it will get you around the corner as
fast as anything because then you are working on the car's handling
attributes rather than its power attributes. IOW, even with a down-on-power
car you can wing the corners and learn how to make it handle.
A stock gearbox works fine, too, until you get to where you are ready to
throw money at motors. I run a GT6 unit now (has to be modified to mate to
the Spitfire engine) becuse it gives me better gearing.
For about $300 or so, you can replace those pesky points and condenser with
a nice electronic ignition. It needs a coil intended for the purpose,
though -- you don't mix an electronic ignition with a stock coil.
One of Ted Schumacher's gear reduction starters is a good investment. I had
fits with Lucas units. Once I got the gear reduction starter in, the first
thing I found to my great delight is that when cranking the engine cold it
does not kick the bendix out, but stays engaged until the engine catches and
you let go of the key.
Sometimes, when you look at certain parts and recoil from the price, you
have to consider what you are going to be doing with this car and then
realize that spending $300 on something once is cheaper than spending $100
on it half a dozen times. At the outset, build for reliability. And your
biggest initial cash outlays should be for things likely to last a long time
(like those competition rear axles).
Top 10 list? Suspension is almost the whole list by itself (includes wheels,
brakes, axles, springs, shocks, diff). Add to that the fuel cell (which
includes electric fuel pumps). And the interior (everything out, new seat,
steering wheel, Accusump, fire system, battery relocation).
Roll cage -- 8-point if you intend to race it (and make sure the kneebar is
removeable). That's enough to get you going right there.
The engine is the most expensive, and has the shortest life. Once you have
the high-revving engine, you then throw money at it forever to keep it
alive. Build the engine for reliability first, wait until the budget is
there to go for the high-compression setup.
Good luck.
--Rocky Entriken
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