AMICI,
I am now in limited production of my new silicone sump gasket. Whereas
my valve cover gasket captures the cover, this sump gasket captures the
block. It won't leak. It can be used over and over again. etc.
Unlike the valve cover gasket that would only work with a stock cover,
this gasket will work with any sump.
It is more expensive. $45.00. I know that's going to push the envelope
for most TR enthusiasts, but for the amount of material costs and labor
involved in R&D, making them by hand, promoting them, processing orders
and packing them, and shipping them, and so on... it's what I have to
charge. You can't compare prices to what you may have seen for a fancy
FORD sump pan gasket, etc. This market is way too small to justify
investment in tooling for mass production and, subsequently, to
purchase a large inventory of gaskets in an attempt to bring the per
unit costs down. I can speak from experience on that, having sold valve
cover gaskets since 1997. It is a very small market. And unlike light
bulbs and tires, I haven't designed these gaskets to fail in some
particular time frame, so that I can enjoy a robust replacement
business! (I've sold several replacement gaskets that were destroyed by
negligence and a wreck, but I have yet to sell a replacement valve cover
gasket because it simply wore out!)
Secondly, there is a potential additional cost. The gasket is thicker
than stock. Depending on the length of your stock bolts, you may need
to replace some or all to be longer. Standard automotive grade bolts
will work, as long as the threads are properly cleaned and Loctite is
used, but I will be offering and highly
recommending a very trick set of aircraft bolts drilled for safety wire.
(See attached pics) This all new hardware, mil spec. bolts, nuts, and
washers, is $25.00. If you tried to buy these bolts yourself, you would
easily spend $2.00 a bolt. (There's 19 bolts on the sump.) I'm
passing along much of my volume discount. (With this gasket, the bolts
are torqued to only 5 lbs, subsequently Loctite or safety wiring is
required.)
If it's more than you'd like to spend on a gasket, I'd understand. This
is a luxury item for those that simply want the best regardless of
cost. It won't be for everyone. If you are game, however, I would like
members of AMICI to be my early customers. Right now, I'm working off
one mold and can only produce one a day. If I get a lot of initial
orders, once I go "public" with it, there will likely be a slight que as
a long curing time limits production.
Take a look at the photos of the gasket (links below). The rails grab
the block as mentioned. They also help you to tease the gasket into
position as
you're installing the gasket, which makes installation a breeze! The
gasket has gusseted corners that helps to maintain the shape of the
gasket as you're installing the gasket and, in place, helps to assure
that no part of the gasket at the ends of the block can move. The extra
thickness enables the gasket to fill any chips in your block or warpage
in your sump cover.
I am in the final road tests of my TR 4A with the gasket, and so far
it's meeting all my expectations. If you purchase the gasket, you too
will
be part of my field testing. Those of you that field tested my valve
cover gasket, all those years ago, know that there are pitfalls in being
part of the initial field tests: changes in recommended torque,
installation methods, etc. However, all that were involved with those
field tests persevered and, from the feedback I received back then, they
enjoyed the opportunity to be the ground breakers. I think members of
AMICI have the "right stuff" to try out the gasket. Of course, the
gasket will be guaranteed, like the valve cover gasket was.
Most likely, I will not have my fancy "owners manual" together for the
early customers, but I will provide a rough draft of directions... and
I'd send you the improved final version when it's put together. (Part
of the manual requires feedback from the early customers, so that I
cover all questions and experiences.)
$45.00 for the gasket.
$25.00 for the hardware (includes 19 bolts, lock washers, flat washers,
and enough safety wire for two installations.)
$4.35 shipping
________
$74.35 total.
That is a lot to spend for a gasket and hardware that you don't need
(unless you have the gasket!). Please don't feel obligated because you
showed an interest before. It would probably take a few years to pay
for itself, in terms of replacement gaskets and tubes of gasket sealants
(depending on your gasket turnover and what sealants you've used in the
past). Just weigh in what your own priorities are for expenditures on
your car, and make your own decision.
I don't think we need a thread on the price of the gasket. If it is
more than you would spend for a gasket, I understand. And I know there
are those out there that feel the stock gasket is fine and "if it ain't
broke, don't fix it". That's fine. I know what my costs are and how
much time I put into this endeavor. I wish I could offer them for less,
but the work involved goes way beyond any little hobby project.
If you're interested, but think you'll be sitting on the fence until a
future rebuild or something, let me know. Purchases now, however, are
certainly appreciated as I'm a bit out on a limb in developing this
gasket!
Here's the pictures of the gasket installed on a TR 3:
http://www.greenheart.com/jmwagner/GasketinPlace.jpg
http://www.greenheart.com/jmwagner/CrossDirlledBolt.jpg
http://www.greenheart.com/jmwagner/SafetyWire2.jpg (see NOTE below
about safety wire techniques)
http://www.greenheart.com/jmwagner/SafetyWire1.jpg
Thank you.
Sincerely,
--Justin Wagner
jmwagnersales.com (the sump gasket is not yet mentioned on the web
site)
NOTE: If you have an aluminum cover and you want the aircraft hardware,
I will need your flange thickness and there would be a delay in order
for me to acquire the correct hardware. (There's such a variance in
those flanges, as I have learned through my AMICI inquiries, that I
could not afford to "stock" all the different bolt lengths!)
NOTE: You will note that the safety wire shown does not follow standard
safety wiring protocol. Even in aircraft, a single wire going through
a series of bolts that form a circle or rectangle, etc, is approved
without twists between each bolt. That may be a surprise to some of
you, based on some of the responses I received from my saftey wiring
questionaire. However they do recommend that the wire enter and exit
each bolt in an alternating pattern that leads one bolt to tighten the
next, etc. You are welcome to follow that procedure and directions for
proper safety wiring will be provided. In this case, however, the
bolts are torqued to 5 lbs., at which point the gasket itself provides
it's own tension. An extra half turn is given. (Which will still read
5lbs, because the gasket is compressing.) Subsequently, whether the
bolt loosens a little or not, 5 lbs will be maintained. Subsequently,
it suffices that a wire simply be run through the bolts. At 5 lbs., you
can see why Loctite will be required if you using your own bolts without
safety wire.
NOTE: Please don't ask about the TR 6 valve cover gasket. It is in the
wings. It should be next. And while the wait has been beyond long, it
will be worth it.
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