Easy to do. I don't remember exactly what I replaced everything with but
modern wheel studs are designed to cut their own splines as you tighten
them into the hole the first time. I used ARP studs and got them extra
long in case I decided later to run a spacer plate. I drilled the holes in
the hubs out to the right size without removing them from the car. I used
a good hand drill that doesn't wobble and a good quality titanium coated
cobalt drill that was new and sharp. All you're doing is removing a little
bit of metal from a hole that should already be fairly precise. I'm sure
the machinists among us will twitch at this approach but it worked fine.
Then I used a spacer and lug nut to pull the studs in. I used a 1/2" air
wrench with reduced pressure (probably about 40 pounds) to bottom the
stud, then put the wheels on and torqued them. No problems in many, many
outings and wheel removals.
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Vucinic [mailto:vucinic@b140.aone.net.au]
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 5:18 PM
To: FOT
Subject: TR6 Replacement Wheel Studs
Dear List'ers,
I am seeking members experiences with changing the STD wheel studs, both
front
and rear with longer, after market studs. Also interested in what if any,
problems are associated with fitting these studs into the STD hubs. E.g.
Is
machining and/or welding etc. necessary.
1. What brand / manufacturer wheel studs are people using. E.g. ARP,
MOROSO
etc.
2. What are the part numbers of the fitted studs. Different front/rear?
Any comments assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
WORKS-4
TR-4
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