With the Rotoflex rear, the only keyed piece that I can see is on the
inner axle shaft. The outer shaft is splined. So I guess that synopsis
doesn't apply to the rotoflex, or does it? If so how?
Regards,
Joe
"R. Kastner" wrote:
>
> In the beginniung we found that the hubs broke because they were using a
> SQUARE key in the axle and as the hub tried to turn it would actually roll
> up over the key and break the casting. We milled the axle/hub to take a
> 3/8" x 1/4" key and elenminated the problem. Same thing on the Spitfire.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Barr, Scott <sbarr@mccarty-law.com>
> To: <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 6:46 AM
> Subject: The Hub of the Issue
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Joe Curry and I have been discussing, off list, the question of GT6 hubs
> > and their tendency to break, leaving a perfectly nice GT6 rolled into a
> > ball. From time to time on the list, we've discussed this issue and
> > various fixes, from GT6Steve's beautifully done 240Z hubs with TR6 axles
> > to CNC-machined replacements made from metallic elements obtainable only
> > from asteroids.
> >
> > But here's the question of the moment: WHY do the hubs break?
> >
> > Is it increased cornering forces that are the problem or is it something
> > else? The failures I've seen or heard about were all related to
> > cornering. So is it cornering forces that crack the hubs, or do the
> > hubs crack for whatever reason and then the cornering forces break off
> > the axle because the cracked hub is wallowing around?
> >
> > I'm looking for any opinions at all, from first-hand scientific analysis
> > to general belly-button-picking (as someone here so aptly put it). I'd
> > prefer to keep my GT6 shiny side up and rubber side down and am just
> > looking for some data before I pick a fix.
> >
> > Scott Barr
> > sbarr@mccarty-law.com
> >
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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