I have the original exhaust manifold on my early 67 1600. Just took it out
and gave it fresh hi temp paint when I rebuilt the head. Works like a charm.
Roy
________________________________
From: Gary and Cindy Ault
<aultgc@att.net>
To: John F Sandhoff <sandhoff@csus.edu>; boakes@gmail.com
Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Header/starter fit issue
John,
The operative words
in your post are "in good shape without any
cracks". I put
a 1969 U20 into
my '66 1600 in mid-1972. Despite having the
little brace
between the
manifold and the motor mount in place, the header
split at the seam
between
cylinders 2 and 3. I brazed it closed. No good.
It split again. I
may
have tried having it welded, I don't recall. So, I
bought a new factory
manifold (pretty easy in the late 70s). In time -- and
not a long time -- it,
too split at the seam. (No, the carbs were not
running lean.) I now have a
Quick Trip header which has been on the car for
at least 25 years and has yet
to
cause me a problem.
I cannot speak to the
1600 exhaust manifolds, but
IMHO, the 2000 manifolds have
a fundamental
design flaw -- they are
overstressed at that center seam.
Gary
________________________________
From:
John F Sandhoff <sandhoff@csus.edu>
To:
boakes@gmail.com
Cc:
datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, February 20,
2012 11:36:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Header/starter fit issue
> My '68
Roadster project
continues to crawl...
> It came with a stock exhaust manifold
and a nice
looking header,
> so I went the route of the header, or course.
I've got to
ask, why "of course"? Past posts have discussed factory
manifold
vs
aftermarket headers, and my recollection is that if you
have the correct
factory manifold, in good shape without any cracks,
you're usually better off
using it rather than an aftermarket header.
Nissan actually did a splendid
design job on most of the bits on these
cars, and reportedly their manifold is
a better match than aftermarket
attempts.
Good manifolds are also rare and
expensive, so a good header is
a good substitute if you don't have a manifold
available. (key word
being good, there's also lots of past discussion on
flange width,
proper washer spacing, etc etc). But it's still a substitute.
As
far as heat and the starter, yes that's a concern. And wrapping
the header
can
lead to early header failure (traps too much heat).
Jet-Hot ceramic
coatings
help a lot, I understand, but I have no
personal experience. A gear
reduction
shorty H20 starter is a great
choice.
My opinions, of course...
--
John
John F Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA
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