Andy's solution makes perfect sense. I've always wondered if we have the same
problem with the rear wheel cylinders since the bleeders are on the bottom of
the cylinders. What were they thinking when they designed that? It's a bit
difficult to turn the car upside down to bleed the rear brakes.
----- Original Message ----
From: Andy Cost <andycost@embarqmail.com>
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, March 4, 2010 5:14:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] brake bleeding woes
I've had problems with air bubbles in the master cylinder. The master
cylinder slopes up away from the driver. A bubble can get in the very end.
All the bleeding in the world wouldn't get it out. My solution was to take
the front wheels off and set the front end almost on the ground. I then
jacked the rear of the car several feet up. I think I either backed the
rear wheels onto the trailer or I used my engine crane to pick the rear up.
Anyway, I jacked it up in the rear until a torpedo level on the master
cylinder showed it was sloped slightly the other way. A few pumps with the
bench bleeder screws open and a large bubble made its way through the tube.
Then the brake pedal was very stiff.
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steven boortz
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2010 12:11 AM
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: [Roadsters] brake bleeding woes
Hi everyone
I just don't get it. How can I have clear bubble-less fluid out of all 8
bleeder screws, and still no pedal? Bad (new) master cylinder?
I have volvo calipers in front. Last time out brakes were fine. Took them
apart to add cooling ducts. Re-assembled and tried to bleed system, but m/c
leaked out the back. Replaced with NOS aftermarket m/c.
Thanks for your help
S
675MIZU
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