I dont remember the exact answers to your bolt questions. If no one on the
list answers, let me know and I will go look at a parts car.
The key parts that rust out and are really hard to fix are the front door
hinge posts, and the rockers, particularly the dog leg area in front of the
rear wheels. If these are OK, most of the rest of the body can be fixed with
careful welding of sheetmetal and judicious use of body filler.
Under the front fenders, down low and to the back, there is the bolt that
holds the bottom of the fender, there is a captured nut inside this
inaccessable part of the front of the rocker panel, looks kind of like a nose
cone. You can take a sawzall and cut this most of the way off, bend it up so
you can reach inside and fix the captured nut, then bend it back down and
re-weld or re-fiberglass it. I usually also fill them with great stuff foam.
THe frame is usually OK, and if it has some funky parts like where rotton
floor boards have dripped on it, it can have plate steel welded to it.
Note that these are just my low dollar but long lasting fix ideas, I have
worked on several of them. My ideas are NOT the way to fix a 67.5 2000, but
if your just looking for a nice looking driver and do not want to pay many
thousands of dollars, this works fine and lasts a long time.
Best Regards,
Jim
Chesapeake Va
> Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 10:12:58 -0800
> From: tputland@charter.net
> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] fender bolt removal
>
> I am doing rust inspection to determine if the tub on my Dad's Roadster is
worth restoring. I am currently removing the front left fender. I got the door
off ok and most of the fender bolts.
>
> It looks to me like I have to remove the grill to get to a fender bolt. Is
this correct? Also, the bolt that is closest to the windscreen, is there a
loose nut underneath there inside the fender? Or it is a captive nut? I can't
really feel anything with my finger tips to determine what might be up there.
>
> thanks
>
> Tim
> Dairyland Datsuns
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