If everything is tight and runs OK, don't mess with it. Re-tapping might
take away enough strength so that when you torque stuff down it will strip.
Then you will be going down the long bumpy road to heli-coil hell. I mean one
or two heli-coils is fine, but it sounds like you may have a LOT!
Just my arm-chair engineering opinion.
I would also start making plans/saving money to accumulate parts to build a
proper engine, just in case something bad happens pre-maturely.
Good Luck,
Jim
Chesapeake, Va
> Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 22:36:58 -0800
> From: eddietude@socal.rr.com
> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Roadsters] Newest problem SAE / Metric
>
> So, Here's the latest problem I've discovered.
>
> Not sure if it was the PO or the mechanic who put my motor back
> together, but my block, which is an H20 (serial number 776777), appears
> to be metric. (My head is SAE)
>
> Turns out, some bonehead used SAE bolts in many of the spots on the
> block. I'm wondering if I should pull the motor mounts, and
> transmission to engine bolts too, to re-tap them back to metric, but
> they seem pretty tight. Plus, I'd have to pull the motor again, not
> something I'm looking forward to doing AGAIN....
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Tonight, I disassembled all of the exterior parts, water pump,
> alternator bracket, fuel pump, etc, and tapped them clean again back to
> metric. They were NOT chewed up too bad, so I think I'm ok. I'm going
> to order new bolts from McMaster.
>
> I found it weird that the water pump seems to use 3 different sized
> bolts. a 8mm 1.25 and a 9mm 1.25 and a 10mm 1.25. Does that sound
> right to you guys?
>
> Also, it appears the timing chain cover bolts used were SAE, and my
> guess is they SHOULD have been metric, yes?
>
> Eddie
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