Thank you for all the replies! I couldn't believe so many folks chimed in. I
will not run this un-fused. The lighter is an aftermarket Pep-Boys $6
special (socket and pull-out). I don't have the packaging anymore, so I
can't be SURE it's not a 6 volt one, but I doubt it. I'm fairly convinced
it's a grounding issue. I'm about to do some changes that should make ALL my
grounds better. I'll update once I'm sure it works. My changes include 2x 4
gauge battery cables. One will be engine to frame. One will be frame to
body. I currently have 2x 10 gauge frame to body wires but I'm not sure how
good the connection is. Now that winter is over, I'll go thru all the ground
points I can find.
Thanks again!
-----Original Message-----
From: Graeme [mailto:graemes@internode.on.net]
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 3:53 AM
To: 'Matthew A. Smith'; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Roadsters] Cigarette lighter problem
"I know this is trivial, but here goes. I added an aftermarket cigarette
lighter (don't have a center console). I have it wired completely separate
from everything else in the car. (-) is to the firewall and (+) is to the
battery, thru a 30 amp fuse. Here's the problem. That 30 amp fuse blows
every other time I use the lighter. Would it be OK to remove the fuse from
the circuit? The socket is ONLY used for the cigarette lighter. I don't use
any other components in it (charger, light, or stuff like that). Should I
use a fusible link wire so it will blow slower and give the lighter time to
get hot?
Matt"
Matt, sounds like you have done everything right.
Don't, for ANY reason, run this circuit unfused.
It MUST be protected, like any other electrical circuit.
Providing you have tight connections to everything, there should be no
reason for the circuit to draw that much current!!!!
I can't help thinking there must be a problem with the lighter device
itself.
It isn't a 6V lighter is it????
Double the voltage and you need double the current for a given resistance.
Just double check that the chassis of the socket is grounded and the
insulated terminal is the "hot" wire or 12V positive.
It might be worthwhile getting another [12V] one and try that.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1400 - Release Date: 27/04/2008
9:39 AM
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