I'm going to try to just flush with DOT5.1, using the vacuum bleeder I bought.
I'll use the entire can to flush. I don't know what the PO put in.
If I have trouble, I'll replace all seals.
Jim
d-solomon@comcast.net wrote:
my messages don't seem to be making it to the list today.
this makes 3rd try:
For some reason, the below message never made it through to the list.
and FWIW: I always use DOT5 in my clutch, whenever I am using DOT5 in my
brakes. I do NOT want to risk a mix-up..... no, a clutch doesn't need it....
but why worry about 2 different fluids?
(original reply that didn't make it:)
I would 'think' that if you were changing over to DOT5, (or back to DOT4) then
the alcohol flush would be sufficient for that. If you were VERY thorough.
However; Once you've cross-contaminated the system, silicosis begins (at least
i'm told that's what it is.. but i'm not a chemist, or anything like one) and
the 2 begin to form a 'gel-like' consistency that is very nasty to try to get
rid of.
While I'm not 100% certain, I 'assumed' that the seals all needed to be
replaced. Brakes are not something I wanted to be any less than 100% certain
on.
I know that rubber seals left in alcohol will dry, shrink and crack. (WD40 does
the opposite, interstingly, making them 'swell')
I know that once I had replaced the seals, the rubber hoses were fine.... but I
would be surprised if the seals would come back without some stiction, or
cracking, or both.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "hallosb@juno.com"
> If your clutch fluid is brown, recommend you flush your brake fluid as well.
> Brake fluid absorbs moisture and detroys your system. I flush out both the
> brake and clutch fluids on all my vehicles every two years.
>
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