All:
Sorry for the first incomplete post. Developed a sudden case of "Cat on the
Keyboard" disease.
What we were trying to say is that Pat and others have the right idea of using
bolts. Mild steel or stainless, they are better than studs.
However, if you do switch to bolts, have the head helicoiled for the two holes,
as they will strip out at the worst moment, forcing you to remove the head and
take it to a machine shop when you were only expecting a 15 min. thermo.
replacement.
BTDT!
Thanks
Dan & Susan
PS: We have also found bolts that broke off almost even with the head during
removal from corrosion. It looked like a metal-eating Beaver had chewed thru
the bolt about 80% of the way.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: fairladyracing@comcast.net
> All:
>
> Pat and others have the right idea. In this location, bolts work better than
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Pat Horne
>
> > On my 67.5 I used bolts instead of studs. I have had no problems over
> > the last 15 years removing the tower. I haven't used any anti-seize,
> > grease, or anything else to keep the bolts from sticking, except on the
> > threads where the bolts go into the head. Being able to turn the bolts
> > has easily broken any corrosion that may exist.
> >
> > Peace,
> > Pat
> >
> > LJordan704@netscape.net wrote:
> >
> > >How hard would it be to remove the studs and replace with the stainless
>steel
> > studs? I'd hate to have one snap, but the stainless sounds much better.
>Also
> > does anyone know the size of the studs?
> > >Thanks,
> > >Linda
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