Don't forget the heat wrench-
carefully heat the bugger with a propane torch, then let it cool.
If that doesn't do it, repeat- maybe this time with some sort of penetrant
first.
Last ditch is to heat it and try to remove it hot.
It is possible to melt it, so while you want to get it nice and hot, (maybe as
high as 600f) be careful not to melt a hole in the thing, which will happen at
1200f or so...
Toby
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff@csus.edu>
> > When trying to get the water tower loose, and failing, I'd try making
> > some sort of seal that you dropped in over the thermostat and filing the
> > area with a water/vinegar mix.
>
> Typically the R16 tower becomes 'one with the head' because of
> corrosion between the long studs and the tower. The coolant isn't
> (supposed to be) in this area - just steel bolts, aluminum surround,
> lots of heat, time, pressure, and probably a little moisture seepage.
> After a few years the dissimilar metals pretty much fuse together.
>
> Lots of penetrating oil, hammering, cursing, and what-all will often
> result in bruised knuckles, bruised tower, and bruised ego.
>
> Many years ago, a master machinist I knew used a ball-peen
> hammer to seriously dent the living daylights out of the areas
> surrounding the studs. I thought he was nuts (and the tower ended
> up with one heck of a 'shot-peened' look), but the hammering caused
> the metal to expand and release the studs. HOWEVER, I would be
> very, very hesitant to try this myself (as in: I'm not going to do it!).
>
> If you do manage to pry it loose, it's been suggested that, after
> cleaning things up, to slather the studs with grease to prevent a
> repeat performance in a few years.
>
> Good luck. I've been unsuccessful at getting the tower on my
> R16 off, and have decided that "if it ain't broken..."
>
> -- John
> John F Sandhoff sandhoff@csus.edu Sacramento, CA
>
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