Pat is the winner!!
The problem was the connection right after the firewall. The PO did a PU job
of connecting the wires. What happened to the harness I do not know. So I
put them together along with adding a circiut breaker.
Thanks for all the help from everyone
Dana
>From: Pat Horne <pjhorne@mail.utexas.edu>
>Reply-To: pjhorne@mail.utexas.edu
>To: Dana Scribner <dscrib2@hotmail.com>
>CC: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net, drone@drone-club.com
>Subject: Re: electric problem
>Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 21:43:17 -0500
>
>Dana,
>
>Most of my experience has been with 67.5 Roadsters, so I may be guessing
>exactly where things are in the high windshield cars.
>
>You say that you swapped engines. Is the engine you put in the same type as
>what was in there car or did you swap in something new?
>
>If you have 13.5V on the alternator output terminal, and 12.15V on the
>battery with the engine running, you have an open connection somewhere.
>Since you are able to start the car via the key (assumed), I suspect that
>all the lights, horn, etc also work. This says that the open connection is
>somewhere between the alternator and the dash.
>
>One question before we get going. When you read the 2 voltages listed above
>did you use the same ground point? If not, the following troubleshooting
>may not help you. Recheck the voltages using the same ground. If you get
>the same voltage on the alternator and battery using the same ground, you
>have a bad ground.
>
>There is a connector in the harness right against the firewall, to the left
>of the steering column, just about as far to the left as you can go. This
>connector is behind the triangle shaped piece of metal up under the dash. I
>think the White-Red wire goes through that connector. There is also another
>connector right there that connects the rear harness. That connector will
>have no affect on this problem. The pins for the White-Red wire may be
>corroded, burned or dirty. See what the pin looks like. An easy way to test
>this is to probe the back of each connector with the volt meter probe. You
>will find the problem when you find where the voltage is different on each
>side of the connector or wire. Be sure to watch the ammeter when you probe
>the connector as you may be causing the connector to make a better
>connection when you push the meter probe in, causing things to work.
>
>If that connection looks good and has a voltage equal to the battery
>voltage on both sides, the problem is with the wire that runs through the
>firewall and to the alternator. Check the harness for signs of a cut
>harness from when you put the new engine in. I don't know where your
>alternator is located, driver's side or passenger's side but the White-Red
>wire runs down the left inner fender to the alternator )driver's side
>alternator, or on across the upper radiator support and to the alternator
>Passenger's side alternator.
>
>Let me know what you find.
>
>Peace,
>Pat
>
>Dana Scribner wrote:
>
>>I need some help, in more ways than one. I did an engine swap and
>>everything went fine except the battery is not changing. I have swapped
>>out alternators and regulators and I get the same reading at the battery
>>12.15V. I get 13.5 v at the alternator and the same at the white wire
>>going into the regulator. I have pulled all the fuses and it make no
>>difference. I have cleaned all the grounds around the engine and the
>>connectors to the starter, alternator and regulator. Now before I start
>>with all the connections in the car is there a way to narrow down where
>>the problem might be? Like maybe disconnect a harness and see if that
>>makes a difference. If so what harness? Does anyone have a suggestion?
>>
>>Dana S
>>
>>1969 2000
>>
>
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