Thanks for all of the help. I got the schematic off of 311,org, fantastic,
found the one with the temp gauge on it, took it to Staples and for under
$20 I now have a foam backed laminated 18x24 colour wiring schematic.
With that in hand, I found the problem, a corroded connector on the voltage
regulator under the dash (thanks Pat for the location on that one). After
cleaning, dielectric grease and a reconnection all of the gauges not work.
I believe the AMP was already working but did not know it, I thought that it
should read in the positive while the car was running not neg and zero so I
believe that is now correct.
My next project is the high beams and low beams. When selected to hi no
problem works fine, but in low they flicker between high and low, must be a
contact problem. So I guess that I am going to disconnect and take it off
of the steering column and see if I can figure a solution.
Thanks again all, I greatly appreciated the help. Final thought, where
should I post pictures of my car?
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Brown [mailto:reblues@reblues.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 10:48 AM
To: Pat Horne
Cc: Chuck Kyle; datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Dashboard electrical issue
Pat, my copy has the temp send wire. I have version 2 dated 12/10/04. The
sender is labeled Thermal T/M and is right under the Voltage regulator. A
yellow/white wire runs out of it.
Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Horne" <pjhorne@mail.utexas.edu>
Cc: "Chuck Kyle" <chuck@chuckkyle.com>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2006 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: Dashboard electrical issue
> There is one problem (that I found with the color drawing on 311s, the
> wire from the engine temp sender to the cluster is missing!. For this
> car, since you are having trouble with the temp gauge, go with the black
> and white diagram.
>
> I agree with Richard. dielectric grease works great on connectors.
> Dielectric grease can be found at Radio shack, most auto parts houses,
> and electrical supply houses. I prefer the electrical supply house
> grease as it is a bit thicker than the others.
>
> One other thing I didn't say is that my cars are 67.5s, so the plugs on
> the later cars are not on mine, so I didn't cover them.
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> Richard Brown wrote:
>
> >Good morning,
> >
> >You can get a great color wiring diagram here.
> >
> > http://www.311s.org/tech/electrical/wiring.html
> >
> >Reading through the Electrical trouble shooting section is helpful. On
the
> >68 the cluster everything but the amp gauge plugs into the main harness.
> >Maybe this is disconnected. Removing the padded cover under the
steering
> >column makes it easier to see. The fuel and temp gauges plug into a
> >regulator that is on the side of the steering column, under the dash.
Make
> >sure the two wires are pushed on good.
> >
> >Something I learned recently when working with electrical connection is
to
> >keep a tube of dielectric grease handy. Whey you unplug something,
squirt a
> >dab of grease in the female end. It will go back together much easier ,
> >next time you take it apart it will slide apart much easier. Helps
prevent
> >corrosion.
> >
> >If you ground the temp wire where it goes into the sender then the temp
> >gauge should move to hot. Same with the fuel gauge. Right under the
> >license plate light is a two wire harness that runs to the top of the
fuel
> >tank. I unplug these and jump them together. The gauge goes to full if
it's
> >working.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> -- Support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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