The trick with ANY audio device is to create a separate power and ground
path for that device. That way any electrical noise existing on a common
ground path will not flow to the audio device you are installing. That
electrical noise can cause strange sounds from the speakers that are very
hard to track down. BTDT with pro-sound stage equipment.
If you have a ground lead that is not connected to the chassis of your audio
amplifier you should run that lead to the negative battery terminal for best
sound results. Not that you will hear the difference between grounding to
the chassis and battery terminal whenever the car is running. Unless you
have taken care to make sure you body is well grounded to the frame and
engine you may find other body/chassis ground issues when you add the
current draw of a large amplifier to the body ground load. Things like the
headlights going dim and brighter with the bass drum beat.
The red amplifier power lead goes directly to the positive battery terminal.
I am installing my amplifier in the original speaker enclosure and mounting
it on the firewall above the passenger feet. I will be running the power
leads through the firewall directly to the battery. A fuse will be
installed on the positive power lead between the battery and the firewall to
prevent unwanted fires, etc., if the wire somehow shorts to the body.
I have already installed 12 GA. stranded wiring to the speakers to keep the
voltage drop between the amplifier and speakers very low.
If you are installing the amplifier in the trunk make sure you run at least
10 GA. stranded wire to the battery. The larger the wiring the better. In
high-end installations they install a large capacitor to take care of
momentary voltage drops in the wiring between the battery and the power
amplifier. Some installations actually put a second battery next to the
amplifier to help maintain a constant power supply voltage. I suspect if
you have that kind of amplifier you will need an SR20 engine to run it.
That brings up the next thing to worry about. Your alternator. Will the
alternator in your car run the ignition system, lights, fan motor,
windshield wipers, sound system, and still keep the battery charged? If not
you should consider changing to a GM alternator with around 60 Amps of
current generating capacity to make sure you don't end up with a dead
battery after a long drive rocking out on tunes with your headlights on.
Not being able to start the car to go home is a real bummer.
Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
slowboy@cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 8:06 AM
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Aftermarket Audio
Some of you already have power amps for your audio systems and
I was wondering how you did the amps power lines (+ & -)?
How did you run the positve line and whee did you connect the grounds?
Thanks!
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