Thanks,
Yes I understand the Amp meter is in Series.
I am just trying to figure out where my short is. I have no
moved on past the amp meter.
You do not think my Amp Meter could be in parallel?
I am grabbing for straws at this time.
I have everything disconnected except the amp meter, and
alternator, and the ground coming out of the harness at the amp meter.
I am still reading 23 ohms between the + and - cables. Next I am going
to replace the positive cable to see if it improves. I have measured from
the
- cable to the negative ground out of the harness and am reading zero ohms.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Jeff
"Graeme Suckling"
<graemes@saonline To: <JRice@koaspeer.com>,
"'datsun list'" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
.com.au> cc:
Fax to:
05/21/2004 07:07 Subject: RE: Electrical Short
Issue.
AM
Hi Jeff & list,
you already realise that a shunt resistor is used, right?
The resistance of the ammeter will be very small, milli-ohms, so that the
meter reads correctly and introduces no significant resistance to the
charge/discharge circuit.
To all intents and purposes, the ammeter IS a dead short.
Because an ammeter is a SERIES connected device, you can bridge the
terminals of an ammeter and the car will still function normally, the meter
will just not read any current flow.
!!!DO NOT BRIDGE THE TERMINALS OF A VOLTMETER!!!
Anyhoo, the ammeter, in my opinion, is not your problem.
If anything it is your diagnostic tool to verify your short.
BTW how do you know you have a dead short?
What were the indicators to that?
Regards,
Graeme Suckling
1965 SP310 - under construction DSOA Member # 112
1971 P510 4 door - daily driver, original owner.
1972 PL510 2 door - VG30ET on Autogas.
1973 HS30/240Z - re-building to 2004 specs.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290669159
Adelaide, South Australia.
Subject: Electrical Short Issue.
I have a question for the group:
What should the resistance reading be on the dash Amp Meter from
+ to - ?
I have a dead short in my system and this is where I think my problem is. I
am getting
no resistance between the + and - on the gauge.
The Amp Meter works with a shunt resistor, correct? What should the reading
be?
Next, does anyone have an extra Amp Meter or complete gauge they would be
will to trade for other parts or sell? (Please contact off line:
jrice@koaspeer.com)
I had one off my other car but now I can not find it. Figures I can find
all the other
switches, gauges ect. except for the Amp, Fuel, Temp. gauge.
Always appreciate the help from the group.
Thanks
Jeff Rice
' 69 1600 - Almost completely restored.
' 68 1600 - Parts soon to scrap the body.
' 66 1600 - Next years project.
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