What Mike mentioned about removing the spark plugs and using the starter is -
of course, correct. My brother had that opionion as as alternative as well.
I'll just mention I'm not a mechanic - just more paranoid (especially after
$800 for a short block/ machined crank), so I took the "prime the oil pump"
method. I guess I just wanted to actually "SEE" oil coming out of the cam
towers before I started it up!
datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com> wrote:I would like to add that when the
engine is first run in for 30 minutes it
needs to be at a fast idle of at least 2000 rpms to break in the cam and
lifters or followers so that they mate properly. Every cam manufacturer
recommends that including the engine builder I used.
If you don't want to spin the oil pump then remove the spark plugs and use
the starter to crank the engine over and build up oil pressure. The assembly
lube will protect the bearings but make sure the builder used assembly lube.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Perry Smith"
To: "Ken & Tammy" ;
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: re built engine break in suggestions
> Ken,
>
> I'm not sure you'll find "concensus," but you're right - there are
definitely two schools of thought. I've opted for the one both my machine
shop and my brother (a mechanic) have agreed upon since my rebuild last
November. Fill it with oil (straight 30 weight), prime the engine - using
the "remove the distributor, turn the oil pump (reverse), method. Replace
the distributor and do a static timing. Remomove the lead form the coil to
the distributor to keep it from starting and crank it for perhaps twenty to
thirty seconds. Replace the distributor/coil lead, and start it up. Let it
run for thirty minutes once it is reunning steady (after you've adjusted the
idle and timing). After the thirty minutes, replace all of the engine oil
and filter (straight 30 weight or 10W30). Run it for approximately 400 to
500 miles varying the speed (RPM's) - and DO NOT EXCEED 3000 RPM!
>
> After you 400 miles break-in, replace the oil and filter again with your
favorite oil ( for my 2L in this area - St.Louis, I've opted to 10W30).
Drive it again until you reach 3000 miles and you can increase the RPS's to
how you normally drive.
>
> Now the tricky part, I've discussed using synthetic oil in my car with the
engine rebuild shop, my brother and a personal friend who worked for Amoco
in Wood River, IL doing motor oil testing. He suggested using Mobil 1
because of the viscosity and internal bonding charactics of the "oil." The
engine reuild shop said they could go either way (synthetic or dino), given
the car would probably be well-cared-for (no extremely long intervals
bewteen oil changes, etc.). However, they all agreed that synthetic oil
should not be use until after the 3000-mile interval. Synthetic oil is
simply too slick to allow the rings to seat properly.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Regards,
> Perry Smith
> '68 2000
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