Hi Scott,
re-torqueing is a function of gasket technology.
If the head gasket kit states re-torqueing is not necessary, so be it.
If re-torqueing IS necessary, the head gasket supplier should include the
necessary method with the gasket(s) kit.
We have in Oz a supplier called Mono-torque which, as the name suggests,
does not require re-torqueing.
In my experience, most modern day gasket sets use this type of head gasket.
If you use OEM Nissan sets which are 30+ years old, THAT is another story!
Even so, there should be directions on the packaging concerning
re-torqueing.
Regards,
Graeme Suckling
1965 SP310 - under construction DSOA Member # 112
1971 P510 4 door - daily driver, original owner.
1972 PL510 2 door - VG30ET on Autogas.
1973 HS30/240Z - re-building to 2004 specs.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290669159
Adelaide, South Australia.
Subject: Retorqueing U20 Heads
Hi List!
I have a U20 that was rebuilt by a local shop about 2
years and 1500 miles ago. I asked the shop about
re-torqueing the head and they said it doesn't need it
- something about new technology bolts and gaskets.
Greg on the list (gregs672liter) and I were talking
about other subjects and the topic of retorqueing came
up, and he recommended sending a query out to the
list. So...
What are your thoughts on retorqueing a U20 head after
a rebuild?
If retorqueing is advised, what is the best method:
1) slightly loosening and retorqueing each bolt, one
at a time? If so do you start from the center and
working out like the manual shows for torqueing?
2) loosen all the bolts slightly starting in reverse
order from the manual, and then retorqueing from the
center and working out like the manual shows for
torqueing?
I have heard both methods and just want to know what
the list thinks is the best.
Thanks all!
Scott Occhiuto.
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