Jim:
A 'tardy' acknowledgment and thanks for your advice. The disc brakes are now
leak free and stop effectively, with a (not unexpected) slight pull to the
right. (They had been pulling to the left - a bad direction on our two lane
roads - initially, until the leaked brake fluid was 'burned off' the disc).
They pull a very little to the right, predictably, because only that wheel has
new pads. The job is only half done, in that I am doing it 'one wheel at a
time'.
In doing that wheel, I replaced the interconnecting pipes with new pre prepared
tubing ('stock', Nissan, via Ross), and a new outer cylinder. I rebuilt the
inner cylinder, using the least corroded core in my used parts supply, which I
cleaned up using emery cloth, and a new seal from a purchased seal kit.
In preparation to do the left front, I have fabricated a 'jig' to attach to a
wheel cylinder to, so that it can be inserted in the chuck of a bench mounted
drill head. I used this to 'turn' the cylinder at relatively low rpm, using
emery cloth, starting at 80 grit, progressing to finer, 180 grit. I did this
to 4 cylinders, and they appear satisfactory, with some a bit better than the
others. (I wish I had thought of this before I did the right wheel, since they
all appear to be superior to the one I cleaned up by hand, for it.) I've
determined that the only portion of the cylinder which is critical for
'smoothness', is that which is about 5/16ths inch from the cylinder wall to
about 11/16ths from the wall. That amount of smooth bore would allow for about
3/8" of pad wear, (which in my experience, equates to about 60,000 miles).
I'll attach a picture of my 'jig/drill head' setup, together with my finished
right front brake.
I'm going to do this to three more of my used cores, and install the remainder
of my seal kits. That way, I'll have 'two ready to install' cylinder
assemblies, in the event of future leaks.
I'm going to have to try that "PB Blaster" stuff, I've never had a whole lot of
luck with penetrating oil, though I've used it a lot. And... your flare wrench
recommendation! I bought one for my rear brake odyssey of last year. Didn't
even know such an animal existed until Tom Hendricksen (er, "Acme Home
Products"), told me about it. It's great - I had even previously considered
trying to modify a box ended wrench to do what was needed(virtually impossible,
of course, because they're hardened...)
Good luck with your '5th gear neutral' problem! That's one problem I've never
experienced, and can confidently state, "never will"!!
Dave
'68 1600
Kailua-Kona
p.s. If any List members, from whom the attachments have been stripped, want
the pictures of the "jig" setup for rehabbing disc brake cylinders - just let
me know and I'll send separately.
Jim Cawrse wrote:
> Only do one wheel at a time so you can look at the undisturbed side when
> you become confused during re-assembly. Once you have all good parts and...
>
> Jim
> Chesapeake Virginia
>
> >From: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff@csus.edu>
> >Reply-To: "John F Sandhoff" <sandhoff@csus.edu>
> >To: "David R. Conrad" <conrad1@gte.net>
> >CC: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: Front Disc Brake Cylinders
> >Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2004 11:55:13 -0800
> >
> > > Before "getting into" the process of correcting a minor leak...
> >
> >Ain't no such thing as a minor leak :-)
> >Likely, if you have any problem at one cylinder, you've got...
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Rt. disc]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Brake jig - vert.]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Brake jig - closeup]
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Brake cyls. 4 plus kits & pipes]
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