Crankshaft end-play should be .002-.007". This is what you were adjusting by
sanding the #3 main bearing. Check it using a dial indicator and levering
the crank back and forth.
If you used stock Nissan rings, you might want to check them against this
diagram:
http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/Images/U20_piston_ring_specs.jpg. The
difference between the 1st and 2nd rings is subtle. They should have been
marked in the packaging.
It's not uncommon to do a few assembly/reassembly loops while building an
engine. It's much better to tear it down and check everything again than to
put it together wrong. I know it feels frustrating, but it's called being
thorough. It's a good thing.
If the copper gasket looks like it is stamped out of thin sheet metal and
has a strange cross-section, it is probably the crush washer for the oil pan
drain plug. As with all crush washers, it is meant to be replaced every time
it is removed. How many of you knew that? Don't feel bad, I didn't know that
for a couple of decades. ;-)
Gordon Glasgow
Renton, WA
www.gordon-glasgow.org
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> sh92@bellsouth.net
> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 8:18 AM
> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> Subject: Engine Rebuild
>
>
> I got most of the engine assembled this weekend. The only
> problem I ran into was the thrust bearings were too wide. When I
> first installed the crank I thought they were a little tight but
> after installing the bearing caps (with plenty of assembly lube)
> I couldnt turn the crank. I had to pull everything back apart
> and sand them down on a flat plate. I sanded until they just
> slipped into the ears on the crank.
> After putting in the crankshaft and the rear seal I started on
> the pistons. I checked the end gaps in the cylinder and assembled
> them. It took me a minute to figure out which one went where,
> but I ended up putting the square one on top and the one with the
> recessed edge facing down in the second slot. Hopefully thats
> right because I really dont want to take it all back apart
> again. Torqued everything down to 65 ft/lbs and now the crank
> turns with about 20-30 ft.lbs of pressure.
> Assembling the timing chains was easy. I just put the #1 cylinder
> at TDC and lined up all the dots. It took me a minute to figure
> out the camshaft chain goes under the jackshaft chain but I
> worked it out.
> I cleaned and installed the oil pump and put the oil pan on. I
> was all ready to put the cyl head on but the machine shop had
> pulled the two compression type standpipes from the top of the
> block when they dunked it. They were pretty grungy. Today Ill
> clean up those up along with cleaning/painting the engine mounts.
> I plan on installing the Cyl head tonight using ARP studs. Im
> going to tighten it down in 10 ft/lb increments until the final
> torque of 80 ft/lbs (Oil).
> I got my gasket kit from Dean Apostle at Fairlady products. I
> have to say, I keep coming across something that needs a gasket
> and keep expecting it to be the one thats missing from the kit,
> but so far, the kit has everything Ive needed. Ive managed to
> identify some of them, but a more than a few have me baffled.
> Theres this little round copper one that Ill have to call Dean
> and ask him about. Ive got gaskets for header outlets (didnt
> know a gasket went there!) and gaskets for the carb to intake
> adapters and a whole slew of gaskets Im sure I need but now am
> worried about where they go!
> Anyway, sorry for the length of the post but Im pretty proud of
> rebuilding my engine. I just hope it runs!
> -Scott
> 69 2k work in progress
> 69 2k next project
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