Will Slater wrote:
> When one does the stroker conversion how important is
> it to go with at 5 spd tranny?
Will,
Not important at all! The first gear in the 4 speed
really does help the 1600 get moving off the line,
which is why some folks don't like a 5 speed behind
a stock 1600.
For a stroker 1600, you have more torque so first
gear is not as much as an issue. Main reason for
going with the 5 speed would be to give you that
5th gear overdrive for freeway cruising (rear end
is 5% different with the 1600: 3.9 vs. 3.7 in the
2000). So if the rpms seem a little high for
freeway cruise, and you want to drop from 3,500 rpm
down to 3,000 rpm... 5 speed would come in handy.
In addition to the 5 speed, you need the 5 speed
driveshaft, and transmission cross member (1600
could be modified to work). The 5 speed needs a shorter
speedometer cable, so you are fine there.
If your '68 1600 is an early body, you'll see the
metal plate blocking off the shorter shifter location
tack welded in place. Other wise you'll need to cut
a new hole, and block off the older hole, and get
the new console shift plate to bolt over the opening.
Tom Walter
By the way any
> suggestions on good sources for a 5 spd, likely cost?
> TIA
> Will
> '68 1600 in need of a rebuild
> --- Jim Cawrse <nqrithjim@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>For all:
>>I agree with Mike on all he says, here are a few
>>additional points:
>>-early 240 Z carbs are same diameter as U20,
>>if you happen across a set. Only problem is
>>the float bowl of the aft carb is on the aft side,
>>this is not a problem with an early single resevoir
>>master cyl car. Any time your dealing with used
>>SUs, make sure the throttle shafts are tight, or
>>no amount of fooling with the carbs will make them
>>work right.
>>-if you go to the expense of the head work and
>>porting, go with bigger valves if possible.
>>for low $$ approach, also,newest issue of Grassroots
>>Motorspots has good article on do it yourself
>>head work. I would hate to grind thru a water
>>passage though!
>>-The stock exhaust manifold is about as good as a
>>header, so if yours is good and not cracked,
>>spend the money on a good free flow
>>2inch exhaust, there is significant power to
>>be gained here. Use a braided stainless flex
>>(Like CDM sells) next to the manifold, because
>>the fat 2in pipe will not be able to move in the
>>hole in the frame.
>>-my car likes lots of initial advance, about
>>20 degrees, make sure if you have this much
>>initial advance you have the early advance
>>cuve (before smog) distributor
>>
>>The car will not have the 600RPM sewing machine like
>>idle anymore (more like a lopey 1100) but the
>>first time you get a 2 foot scratch going into
>>second, or walk away from a Miata, it will
>>be more than worth it.
>>
>>For this year, SCCA groups all slightly modified
>>roadsters in CSP, a terrible disadvantage for
>>1500 and 1600 cars, so I pretty much figure
>>a stroker should be CSP also, since its same
>>engine size as a 2000....so far no one has
>>questioned this. On the other hand, I am
>>in no danger of taking away anyones national
>>title either.......
>>Best Regards,
>>Jim
>>Chesapeake Va
>>67 pushrod 2L/5spd
>>72 510 sportwagon
>>
>>
>>>From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
>>>Reply-To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
>>>To: "Mallory Owen" <mallory@floorhockey.net>,
>>><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>>>Subject: Re: 311 stroker
>>>Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:44:40 -0400
>>>MIME-Version: 1.0
>>>Received: from [207.173.21.42] by hotmail.com (3.2)
>>>
>>with ESMTP id
>>
>>>MHotMailBF32A946007F40043164CFAD152A07690; Sun, 25
>>>
>>Aug 2002 15:46:38 -0700
>>
>>>Received: (from majordom@localhost)by
>>>
>>teamfat2.dsl.aros.net (8.11.0/8.11.0)
>>
>>>id g7PMiq611554for datsun-roadsters-actors; Sun, 25
>>>
>>Aug 2002 16:44:52 -0600
>>
>>>(MDT)
>>>
>>>From datsun-roadsters-owner@autox.team.net Sun, 25
>>Aug 2002 15:47:50 -0700
>>
>>>Message-ID:
>>>
>><002101c24c88$ff9ae640$15385a18@nyc.rr.com>
>>
>>>References:
>>>
>><002a01c24c54$cda6a6d0$1802a8c0@mallorycomp>
>>
>>>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000
>>>Sender: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>>>Precedence: bulk
>>>
>>>You need a cam for the car. I use a Malvern Racing
>>>
>>cam - 272 duration with
>>
>>>.450 lift. I also used custom Manley Proflo valves
>>>
>>which flow more than
>>
>>>stock valves and don't cost much more money than
>>>
>>stock valves and they're
>>
>>>mucho lighter. I also used comp valve springs.
>>>
>>>I suggest using a U20 oil pump and ARP rod bolts.
>>>
>>If your head is very cut
>>
>>>I
>>>also recommend forklift pistons to keep the CR
>>>
>>reasonable although others
>>
>>>may disagree on this. You lose HP but gain
>>>
>>reliability.
>>
>>>I also suggest U20 carbs as the 1.5" carbs just
>>>
>>don't flow enough at higher
>>
>>>rpms. I ported a 1600 manifold to accept the carbs.
>>>
>>>Porting would be very nice and is determined by how
>>>
>>much $$$$ you have.
>>
>>>I also lightened my flywheel and balanced the
>>>
>>engine.
>>
>>>Good luck
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Mallory Owen" <mallory@floorhockey.net>
>>>To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>>>Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 12:31 PM
>>>Subject: 311 stroker
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>My R16 needs a rebuild.
>>>>I plan to use an H20 crank and make a stroker.
>>>>What advice is out there re: cam, headwork, rods
>>>>
>>etc.
>>
>>>>thanks
>>>>Mallory
>>>>
>>>>/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing
>>>>
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>>
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>>>>
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>>
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>>>>
>>datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _________________________________________________________________
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