For all:
I agree with Mike on all he says, here are a few
additional points:
-early 240 Z carbs are same diameter as U20,
if you happen across a set. Only problem is
the float bowl of the aft carb is on the aft side,
this is not a problem with an early single resevoir
master cyl car. Any time your dealing with used
SUs, make sure the throttle shafts are tight, or
no amount of fooling with the carbs will make them
work right.
-if you go to the expense of the head work and
porting, go with bigger valves if possible.
for low $$ approach, also,newest issue of Grassroots
Motorspots has good article on do it yourself
head work. I would hate to grind thru a water
passage though!
-The stock exhaust manifold is about as good as a
header, so if yours is good and not cracked,
spend the money on a good free flow
2inch exhaust, there is significant power to
be gained here. Use a braided stainless flex
(Like CDM sells) next to the manifold, because
the fat 2in pipe will not be able to move in the
hole in the frame.
-my car likes lots of initial advance, about
20 degrees, make sure if you have this much
initial advance you have the early advance
cuve (before smog) distributor
The car will not have the 600RPM sewing machine like
idle anymore (more like a lopey 1100) but the
first time you get a 2 foot scratch going into
second, or walk away from a Miata, it will
be more than worth it.
For this year, SCCA groups all slightly modified
roadsters in CSP, a terrible disadvantage for
1500 and 1600 cars, so I pretty much figure
a stroker should be CSP also, since its same
engine size as a 2000....so far no one has
questioned this. On the other hand, I am
in no danger of taking away anyones national
title either.......
Best Regards,
Jim
Chesapeake Va
67 pushrod 2L/5spd
72 510 sportwagon
>From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
>Reply-To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
>To: "Mallory Owen" <mallory@floorhockey.net>,
><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: 311 stroker
>Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:44:40 -0400
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>(MDT)
>From datsun-roadsters-owner@autox.team.net Sun, 25 Aug 2002 15:47:50 -0700
>Message-ID: <002101c24c88$ff9ae640$15385a18@nyc.rr.com>
>References: <002a01c24c54$cda6a6d0$1802a8c0@mallorycomp>
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000
>Sender: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>Precedence: bulk
>
>You need a cam for the car. I use a Malvern Racing cam - 272 duration with
>.450 lift. I also used custom Manley Proflo valves which flow more than
>stock valves and don't cost much more money than stock valves and they're
>mucho lighter. I also used comp valve springs.
>
>I suggest using a U20 oil pump and ARP rod bolts. If your head is very cut
>I
>also recommend forklift pistons to keep the CR reasonable although others
>may disagree on this. You lose HP but gain reliability.
>
>I also suggest U20 carbs as the 1.5" carbs just don't flow enough at higher
>rpms. I ported a 1600 manifold to accept the carbs.
>
>Porting would be very nice and is determined by how much $$$$ you have.
>
>I also lightened my flywheel and balanced the engine.
>
>Good luck
>
>Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mallory Owen" <mallory@floorhockey.net>
>To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 12:31 PM
>Subject: 311 stroker
>
>
> > My R16 needs a rebuild.
> > I plan to use an H20 crank and make a stroker.
> > What advice is out there re: cam, headwork, rods etc.
> > thanks
> > Mallory
> >
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