Excellent advice, Jim. I've tried to keep roadsters running for 20 years
using the same thoughts.
Many times the bottom end is ok, and the head is what needs most of the
attention. Remember the fork lift valves fit in the 1600 heads and they are
much, much cheaper than buying from nissan. So are the guides, and they are
all available with 2-3 day shipping.
Mike Koken
Colo. Springs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cawrse" <nqrithjim@hotmail.com>
To: <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>; <will45817@yahoo.com>; <amatkins@qnet.com>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: KA24 swap vs. 1600 rebuild Vs L20B
> For all:
> Another option that might be cheaper/better would be to
> go with an L series engine. Look on the 510 sites,
> there are built up L16/18/20 engines avail for maybe around
> 500-1K in good shape. The L series should be easier to adapt
> than the KA motor, as its got old school stuff on it
> (carbs, points, minimal smog plumbing, no ECU etc)
> add a dog-leg 5 spd or a 280ZX 5spd and away you go.
> You would also be quite fast if you went with say
> a dual carb L20.
>
> For the 1600 dont assume that it needs total
> complete multi-thousand dollar work. You cant
> estimate cost until you pull it out and take
> it apart. Maybe you can live quite reliably
> for another 50K miles with a hone job and some
> rings, and a valve job and valve guides,
> timing gear and chain, and maybe a new oil
> pump and rod bearings for insurance.
> If you do most of the
> work yourself, you should have her running
> again for perhaps $500.
>
> Keep the faith! Dont get bummed by assuming the
> most expensive bad things will be wrong.
> Be inventive and look around.
>
> Best Regards,
> Jim
> Chesapeake Va
> >From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >Reply-To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >To: "Will Slater" <will45817@yahoo.com>, "aaron atkins"
> ><amatkins@qnet.com>, "datsun list" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: KA24 swap vs. 1600 rebuild
> >Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 06:38:45 -0400
> >
> >You can't use the forklift pistons as they won't fit a 1600 but will fit
a
> >stroker. The costs of rebuilding an engine vary wildly depending on how
> >much
> >needs to be replaced such as pistons, cam, pushrods, valves and how
machine
> >work is needed such as new valve seats, boring the piston walls vs
honing,
> >resizing the rods etc.
> >
> >If your valves were never cut and the seats are OK you can possibly reuse
> >the valves and save the seats. If the cam is OK you can have it polished
up
> >or just leave it alone.
> >
> >I would use only Nissan OEM timing gears, either forklift or Roadster.
The
> >bearings are easily obtainable as are the timing chains and tensioner.
> >
> >Like I said the costs vary widely - it depends what you want to do and
what
> >needs to be replaced. The KA24 set up is nice but probably requires a lot
> >of
> >work and you don't know the condition of the engine or tranny. If you
think
> >rebuilding a 1600 is a lot wait untill you see how much a KA24 will cost.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Will Slater" <will45817@yahoo.com>
> >To: "aaron atkins" <amatkins@qnet.com>; "datsun list"
> ><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2002 12:11 AM
> >Subject: Re: KA24 swap vs. 1600 rebuild
> >
> >
> > > I too am very intersted in this subject. Since my 1600
> > > engine is smoking badly I need to consider the
> > > options. I am wondering what such a rebuild would cost
> > > using forklift U20 engine parts. One lister gave me
> > > the url for a website for forklift parts and wonder
> > > what parts one can use and which ones will not work.
> > > The site is http://www.motorpowerinc.com/ As always
> > > TIA!
> > >
> > > --- aaron atkins <amatkins@qnet.com> wrote:
> > > > Well my overheating problem has been
> > > > found..FINALLY. And I feel pretty
> > > > dumb for not looking into it before. The timing
> > > > chain is stretched
> > > > extremely badly; there must be 20 degs. of slop in
> > > > it. With 110# of
> > > > compression and a bad timing set, I'm looking into
> > > > options again. Someday I
> > > > will learn to keep old e-mails from the list about
> > > > new webpages. Who has
> > > > the most comprehensive page about doing the KA24
> > > > swap?
> > > > The one thing I have not seen is a good dollar
> > > > for dollar comparison of
> > > > swapping vs. rebuilding (1600). Who has done a
> > > > complete re-build lately?
> > > > Assuming my crank only needs turning and my rods are
> > > > good, what does it cost
> > > > to do a COMPLETE re-build on a 1600? On the other
> > > > side of the coin; If I
> > > > could get a KA24 set-up (motor,trans,ECU) for about
> > > > $800.00, how much does
> > > > all of the little stuff (rad.,plumbing,mounts,misc)
> > > > cost? Has anybody
> > > > converted a KA24 or SR20 to carbs? I know this may
> > > > be a silly question, but
> > > > carbs are easy and I would not have to modify the
> > > > current system a whole
> > > > lot.
> > > > Finally, a couple of weeks ago I picked up a
> > > > Vintage Formula Vee
> > > > w/trailer. It is a barn fresh roller. The chassis
> > > > is super straight, and
> > > > all of the body work is present. I think I'm going
> > > > to sell it to finance
> > > > the Roadster project (some more). If anyone is
> > > > interested in it contact me
> > > > O/L.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Aaron
> > > > '67 1600
> > > >
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