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Re: tune up on a 1600

To: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@attbi.com>, <SPL311RDST@aol.com>,
Subject: Re: tune up on a 1600
From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 15:01:41 -0400
Get dizzy  tune up parts for a 510, Honda Civic or 610. They are the same
distributor.

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@attbi.com>
To: <SPL311RDST@aol.com>; <roadstrdude@yahoo.com>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: tune up on a 1600


> Timing should be 16deg BTDC on non-smog 1600, TDC for smog
> distributors.  It's the distributor, not the smog pump that determines
this.
>
> Spark plug gap should be .028 - .032, I believe.
>
> Kind of specified but not exactly mentioned was do the carbs LAST.
Syncing
> the carbs really means getting the air intake the same, not the fuel.
Turn
> the fuel mix nuts all the way up then down about two full turns, I
> think.  Sync the carbs like this, then worry about adjusting the
> air/fuel.  For those without a colortune or exhaust gas analyzer, adjust
> the fuel mix nut to the point where the car just keeps lopping along when
> you lift the other carb's piston.
>
> Also, when adjusting the idle screw, remove the dog bone connectors.  Once
> done, adjust the dog bones so they have no impact on the idle.  You should
> not use the common idle adjust screw on the linkage.  This is only to set
> "high idle" to adjust the carbs when the car is running at about 1500rpm
> (although I have yet to have anyone explain HOW you adjust the carbs at
> high idle without modifying the low idle settings).  It should not press
on
> the linkage at all during normal operation, and the dog bones should not
> pull up on the carbs when the car is idling.
>
> My local NAPA didn't have many of the parts in stock (cap, rotor) - I
don't
> know why.  The local CarQuest did, though.  Parts weren't cheap but were
> good quality (Standard).
>
> At 01:42 PM 4/20/2002 -0400, SPL311RDST@aol.com wrote:
> >Plugs... the consensus is NGK  BPR6ES - r is for resistor, these are the
> >short reach (equivilant to a 404 in Autolite)  Cap/rotor/points/cond is
all
> >basic Datsun single-point stuff, meaning -  readily available at your
local
> >parts store.
> >
> >  Get a cap with brass contacts - it'll last ya a lot longer than the
alumn.
> >ones. I like to go to NAPA for the tuneup stuff. Their Echlin line has
good
> >quality parts. If you're on a budget, at least make the points set the
best
> >quality you can get. It's worth the few extra $$. Cheap points have weak
> >springs/arms that tend to go off center rather quickly and will leave you
on
> >the side of the road. use a dwell meter to set points rather than the
gap.
> >It's much more exact (55* btw)
> >
> >If the car has been sitting for any length, remember to do the wires as
well.
> >They can appear fine when you start, but if they are old/dried, they will
> >break up inside when disturbed. Have seen many follks try to return
tune-up
> >parts as "defective" when in reality thier wires went south on them in
mid
> >tune-up. Picture that old table lamp that has been squooshed up pluged in
> >behind the sofa for 10 yrs - ya can never get the plug bent back just
right
> >to make it work again.
> >
> >Don't try to get cute and bump up the timing way advanced (especially if
this
> >is a  later smog distributor) Car won't be happpy. 10*btdc max ?? Someone
> >will need to verify on that one.
> >
> >Make sure a carb balance is part of your tune up. Find someone w/ an air
flow
> >meter and a Colortune if you don't have these. If you're carbs are off,
the
> >rest of the tune up won't really matter.
> >
> >
> >Laurie :-)
> >70 SPL311
> >AzROC
> >Chandler, AZ
> >
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>
> Adam Bradley
> '70 Datsun 1600 Roadster SPL311-28181
> '66 Datsun PL411 sedan PL411-022447
> http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
>
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