Timing should be 16deg BTDC on non-smog 1600, TDC for smog
distributors. It's the distributor, not the smog pump that determines this.
Spark plug gap should be .028 - .032, I believe.
Kind of specified but not exactly mentioned was do the carbs LAST. Syncing
the carbs really means getting the air intake the same, not the fuel. Turn
the fuel mix nuts all the way up then down about two full turns, I
think. Sync the carbs like this, then worry about adjusting the
air/fuel. For those without a colortune or exhaust gas analyzer, adjust
the fuel mix nut to the point where the car just keeps lopping along when
you lift the other carb's piston.
Also, when adjusting the idle screw, remove the dog bone connectors. Once
done, adjust the dog bones so they have no impact on the idle. You should
not use the common idle adjust screw on the linkage. This is only to set
"high idle" to adjust the carbs when the car is running at about 1500rpm
(although I have yet to have anyone explain HOW you adjust the carbs at
high idle without modifying the low idle settings). It should not press on
the linkage at all during normal operation, and the dog bones should not
pull up on the carbs when the car is idling.
My local NAPA didn't have many of the parts in stock (cap, rotor) - I don't
know why. The local CarQuest did, though. Parts weren't cheap but were
good quality (Standard).
At 01:42 PM 4/20/2002 -0400, SPL311RDST@aol.com wrote:
>Plugs... the consensus is NGK BPR6ES - r is for resistor, these are the
>short reach (equivilant to a 404 in Autolite) Cap/rotor/points/cond is all
>basic Datsun single-point stuff, meaning - readily available at your local
>parts store.
>
> Get a cap with brass contacts - it'll last ya a lot longer than the alumn.
>ones. I like to go to NAPA for the tuneup stuff. Their Echlin line has good
>quality parts. If you're on a budget, at least make the points set the best
>quality you can get. It's worth the few extra $$. Cheap points have weak
>springs/arms that tend to go off center rather quickly and will leave you on
>the side of the road. use a dwell meter to set points rather than the gap.
>It's much more exact (55* btw)
>
>If the car has been sitting for any length, remember to do the wires as well.
>They can appear fine when you start, but if they are old/dried, they will
>break up inside when disturbed. Have seen many follks try to return tune-up
>parts as "defective" when in reality thier wires went south on them in mid
>tune-up. Picture that old table lamp that has been squooshed up pluged in
>behind the sofa for 10 yrs - ya can never get the plug bent back just right
>to make it work again.
>
>Don't try to get cute and bump up the timing way advanced (especially if this
>is a later smog distributor) Car won't be happpy. 10*btdc max ?? Someone
>will need to verify on that one.
>
>Make sure a carb balance is part of your tune up. Find someone w/ an air flow
>meter and a Colortune if you don't have these. If you're carbs are off, the
>rest of the tune up won't really matter.
>
>
>Laurie :-)
>70 SPL311
>AzROC
>Chandler, AZ
>
>/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
>/// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or go to
>/// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
>/// Send list postings to datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Adam Bradley
'70 Datsun 1600 Roadster SPL311-28181
'66 Datsun PL411 sedan PL411-022447
http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
|