Good list. (engine removel list - and this list of course:)
A couple of things I have found that differ.
I also unbolt the lower radiator support bracket from the body and and lift
the whole radiator, support brackets, shoud, and hoses all in one unit. You
will have to unclip the wiring harness from the upper bracket, but very
easy/quick. With the brackets gone, you have more clearance up front during
the "lift-out".
Don't forget to drain the 1600 transmission. Or it will do itself on the
way out.
I just take the shift plate off and not the whole console to get to the
shifter.
I leave the grill on, but may not be a bad idea to take it off in case of a
hoist failure.
I have dropped a 1600 motor/trans using a come-along. I was walking around
to get the Roadster in position (motor at full height) and the aluminum
teeth on the come-along gave. Crushed an oil pan is all - lucky! Scared
the crap out of me! Now I use them for dragging and not lifting.
Record time pulling a Roadster motor (a trained motor - exhaust flange new,
new bolts through out, ....) is half an hour with air tools. Last one took
2 hours - getting old.
Good luck and be careful
Phil
SEROC
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor Laury [mailto:vlaury@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 5:29 PM
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net; Greg Hare
Subject: Crawdaddy's Engine Removal Checklist <Long>
>From Victor's Deep Dark Archive.
-----repost without permission-----
Date: Thus, 28 Oct 93 15:55:45 EDT
From: Crawford Griffith
Subject: Engine Removal Checklist
The shop manual from Nissan on the roadster gives inadequate detail on
removing the engine and tranny. This is my low-tech solution of separating
the engine/tranny from a late-model 1600. I assume that most of this
applies to other models/years. I hope that this saves someone some grief.
My qualifications are that I have done this job 4 times this year. This is a
'get it all out at once technique'. All manifolds, starter, fan,
alternator, etc. stay on the engine. It can be done, if you're careful.
Pointers:
a. When removing hoses, undo the clamps until loose, twist and pull off the
connection, then slip the hose clamp up on the hose and retighten. This
keeps the clamp with the hose.
b. Put all the bolts, etc. in a ziplock bag. This way you can lose all the
bolts at once, rather than wasting time losing them piecemeal.
c. When you undo a hose, wire, or line, push it out of the way or wrap it
around something.
d. Remove as much from the engine compartment as you can - things can get
crunched. You don't have to remove the washer tank, but mine cost $70: I
take it out.
e Be careful. Don't get between the engine and the ground at any time.
Sir Isaac Newton's law still applies!
f. Make sure that you have something strong enough to lift the engine, and
enough clearance above the car. My lift point is about 6 feet high.
Remember that the front suspension will rise about 4-5 inches when you take
the engine out.
Below are the steps. Time-consuming, frustrating steps are marked with **.
0. Drain the oil and coolant. Not on the road, dispose of properly!
1. Remove hood pivot bolts and hood support arm cotter pin. Gently lift
the hood off.
2. Disconnect battery connections and bracket and remove.
3. Unfasten grill screws and remove the grill.
4. Distributor: remove central coil wire, points wire (spade clip), unbolt
vacuum tube and remove, undo tach cable.
5. Remove fuel line from fuel pump 'in' connection.
6. Alternator: remove the battery wire, rectangular regulator plug, and
ground wire.
7. Remove the oil pressure gauge hose connection. It is a clip bracket,
under the battery tray. Pry out the U-clip and gently unscrew the flare
bolt. Tape the hose end and curl back behind the oil filter.
8. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine. Leave the
hoses attached to the radiator.
9. Remove radiator overflow tubes: Thermostat tower to radiator and
radiator to tank.
10. Remove the windshield washer tank, the bolts are under the in the
fender.
**11. The trick on the radiator is this: unbolt the radiator shroud. Unbolt
the radiator upper support from the body, rad overflow tank and remove the
upper support. Unbolt the rad from the lower support. Pull the radiator
forward, and unsnap the fan blades back out of the shroud. Lift out the rad
and shroud.
12. Undo the temp sender wire
13. Remove the choke cables from the carbs.
14. Remove the fuel line that runs from the rear carb to the firewall (fuel
return line) Bend it down to drain it.
15. Remove the throttle cable.
**16. Remove the heater hoses that connect to and under the intake
manifold. The hose clamps are hard to reach, unless they happen to be
facing the right way. (Do it right when you replace the engine).
17. Turn the steering wheel all the way right. Get on the ground near the
driver's side left wheel. Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the exhaust
pipe.
18. Unbolt the ground strap from the starter. Undo the battery cable from
the starter solenoid, and the ignition wire (spade).
19. Turn the steering wheel all the way left. Get on the ground, passenger
side. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the tranny. Put the cylinder in
a plastic bag, and let it hang from it's hose (out of the way).
20. Whilst on the ground, unsnap the cable from the tranny reverse switch
(two bullet connections).
21. Get in the car, and remove the center console (4 screws in the box, 2
at the front). Remove the gear shift lever from the tranny.
**22. Remove the driveshaft bolts. I do this with an open-end wrench, I
can only get about an eighth turn twist each time. After each bolt is done,
I roll the car back a little to move the next bolt to the top.
23. Reach down the driveshaft tunnel and undo the speedo cable from the
tranny. Its on the passenger side on the tranny tail- housing.
24. Unbolt the motor mounts from the body The goal is to leave the mounts
on the motor brackets. One bolt is threaded into the body plate, the other
is a bolt-and-nut. Undo the bolt-and-nuts first from both sides, then the
threaded bolts. (The loose bolts can get trapped if you do them last.)
25. Get on the ground and find the tranny bolt holes in the cross member
(they have a flare on them). Undo the tranny mount bolts with a 15mm deep
socket.
Now it's time to lift. I use a device called a 'come-along' with a
ratcheted spool of steel cable. This is bolted under my deck. I also use
a load balancer that bolts to the engine hooks and has a movable lift point
moved by a crank. The trick is to put the lift point to the back of the
engine, lift the tranny bolts out of their holes. Move the car backward.
As you lift the engine, crank the lift point forward, to tilt the engine
tranny-tail down, and push the car back. You're trying to clear the grill
mount, and not hang the tranny up in the tunnel. Take it easy. If anything
hangs up, stop and free it up. When you get to the point where the oil pan
is up near the grill support, you need to start leveling out the engine. It
should be about level when you clear the entire engine compartment.
Putting the engine back in is pretty much doing the above list backwards.
Good luck. If someone has a better way to do any steps, let me know.
Crawford Griffith
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