Get an engine tilter. You'll thank me as it takes out a big chance of
damaging the car when you have to reset the chains and greatly speeds up the
process.
Never, ever use a come-along to lift loads vertically. Get a chain fall or
rent an engine lifter.
If you have a header remove it before trying to get the engine out as it's a
really tight fit, too tight IMHO.
If your engine mounts are shot, which they probably are if they weren't
replaced since the car was built, use a jack with a piece of wood and jack
up the car under the oil pan and rip the mounts so you don't waste your time
trying to unbolt them. Those rubber mounts go bad over the years.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Laury" <vlaury@earthlink.net>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>; "Greg Hare" <ghare@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 6:29 PM
Subject: Crawdaddy's Engine Removal Checklist <Long>
> From Victor's Deep Dark Archive.
> -----repost without permission-----
>
> Date: Thus, 28 Oct 93 15:55:45 EDT
> From: Crawford Griffith
> Subject: Engine Removal Checklist
>
> The shop manual from Nissan on the roadster gives inadequate detail on
> removing the engine and tranny. This is my low-tech solution of
separating
> the engine/tranny from a late-model 1600. I assume that most of this
> applies to other models/years. I hope that this saves someone some grief.
> My qualifications are that I have done this job 4 times this year. This is
a
> 'get it all out at once technique'. All manifolds, starter, fan,
> alternator, etc. stay on the engine. It can be done, if you're careful.
>
> Pointers:
> a. When removing hoses, undo the clamps until loose, twist and pull off
the
> connection, then slip the hose clamp up on the hose and retighten. This
> keeps the clamp with the hose.
>
> b. Put all the bolts, etc. in a ziplock bag. This way you can lose all
the
> bolts at once, rather than wasting time losing them piecemeal.
>
> c. When you undo a hose, wire, or line, push it out of the way or wrap it
> around something.
>
> d. Remove as much from the engine compartment as you can - things can get
> crunched. You don't have to remove the washer tank, but mine cost $70: I
> take it out.
>
> e Be careful. Don't get between the engine and the ground at any time.
> Sir Isaac Newton's law still applies!
>
> f. Make sure that you have something strong enough to lift the engine,
and
> enough clearance above the car. My lift point is about 6 feet high.
> Remember that the front suspension will rise about 4-5 inches when you
take
> the engine out.
>
> Below are the steps. Time-consuming, frustrating steps are marked with **.
>
> 0. Drain the oil and coolant. Not on the road, dispose of properly!
>
> 1. Remove hood pivot bolts and hood support arm cotter pin. Gently lift
> the hood off.
>
> 2. Disconnect battery connections and bracket and remove.
>
> 3. Unfasten grill screws and remove the grill.
>
> 4. Distributor: remove central coil wire, points wire (spade clip),
unbolt
> vacuum tube and remove, undo tach cable.
>
> 5. Remove fuel line from fuel pump 'in' connection.
>
> 6. Alternator: remove the battery wire, rectangular regulator plug, and
> ground wire.
>
> 7. Remove the oil pressure gauge hose connection. It is a clip bracket,
> under the battery tray. Pry out the U-clip and gently unscrew the flare
> bolt. Tape the hose end and curl back behind the oil filter.
>
> 8. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine. Leave the
> hoses attached to the radiator.
>
> 9. Remove radiator overflow tubes: Thermostat tower to radiator and
> radiator to tank.
>
> 10. Remove the windshield washer tank, the bolts are under the in the
> fender.
>
> **11. The trick on the radiator is this: unbolt the radiator shroud.
Unbolt
> the radiator upper support from the body, rad overflow tank and remove the
> upper support. Unbolt the rad from the lower support. Pull the radiator
> forward, and unsnap the fan blades back out of the shroud. Lift out the
rad
> and shroud.
>
> 12. Undo the temp sender wire
>
> 13. Remove the choke cables from the carbs.
>
> 14. Remove the fuel line that runs from the rear carb to the firewall
(fuel
> return line) Bend it down to drain it.
>
> 15. Remove the throttle cable.
>
> **16. Remove the heater hoses that connect to and under the intake
> manifold. The hose clamps are hard to reach, unless they happen to be
> facing the right way. (Do it right when you replace the engine).
>
> 17. Turn the steering wheel all the way right. Get on the ground near
the
> driver's side left wheel. Unbolt the exhaust manifold from the exhaust
> pipe.
>
> 18. Unbolt the ground strap from the starter. Undo the battery cable
from
> the starter solenoid, and the ignition wire (spade).
>
> 19. Turn the steering wheel all the way left. Get on the ground,
passenger
> side. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the tranny. Put the cylinder
in
> a plastic bag, and let it hang from it's hose (out of the way).
>
> 20. Whilst on the ground, unsnap the cable from the tranny reverse switch
> (two bullet connections).
>
> 21. Get in the car, and remove the center console (4 screws in the box, 2
> at the front). Remove the gear shift lever from the tranny.
>
> **22. Remove the driveshaft bolts. I do this with an open-end wrench, I
> can only get about an eighth turn twist each time. After each bolt is
done,
> I roll the car back a little to move the next bolt to the top.
>
> 23. Reach down the driveshaft tunnel and undo the speedo cable from the
> tranny. Its on the passenger side on the tranny tail- housing.
>
> 24. Unbolt the motor mounts from the body The goal is to leave the
mounts
> on the motor brackets. One bolt is threaded into the body plate, the
other
> is a bolt-and-nut. Undo the bolt-and-nuts first from both sides, then the
> threaded bolts. (The loose bolts can get trapped if you do them last.)
>
> 25. Get on the ground and find the tranny bolt holes in the cross member
> (they have a flare on them). Undo the tranny mount bolts with a 15mm deep
> socket.
>
> Now it's time to lift. I use a device called a 'come-along' with a
> ratcheted spool of steel cable. This is bolted under my deck. I also
use
> a load balancer that bolts to the engine hooks and has a movable lift
point
> moved by a crank. The trick is to put the lift point to the back of the
> engine, lift the tranny bolts out of their holes. Move the car backward.
> As you lift the engine, crank the lift point forward, to tilt the engine
> tranny-tail down, and push the car back. You're trying to clear the grill
> mount, and not hang the tranny up in the tunnel. Take it easy. If
anything
> hangs up, stop and free it up. When you get to the point where the oil pan
> is up near the grill support, you need to start leveling out the engine.
It
> should be about level when you clear the entire engine compartment.
> Putting the engine back in is pretty much doing the above list backwards.
> Good luck. If someone has a better way to do any steps, let me know.
> Crawford Griffith
>
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