Stainless is too hard a material to use with standard flair kits. One of the
Mawn Brothers works at a place that makes SS Hydraulic lines, as well as
normal ones, and he told me the standard stuff would bite the dust after 2
or 3 flairs were made.
I can believe that after attempting to drill through some 1/8" SS sheet. It
dulled my bits quickly even though I was using a new Hanson Cobalt drill bit
in a drill press at low speed and with plenty of cutting oil.
Just get them made up at Classic Brake.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "sidney raper" <spl310@hotmail.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: rotor rooter brake line
> If anyone is doing a frame off, the answer is obvious to me. There are
> several companies that sell stainless steel brake lines. They can be
> purchases straight and bent to the appropriate configuration. The flares
> are not difficult to do with the proper tools either. I have done plenty
> (no failures yet - knock on wood!)
>
> Sid
>
>
> >From: Geegc@aol.com
> >Reply-To: Geegc@aol.com
> >To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: rotor rooter brake line
> >Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 12:01:22 EST
> >
> >Mike is right, I flushed all the lines and got some gunk out with the old
> >fluid. I let it run until the fluid was clear. But it is a good idea to
> >change the lines which I will do next winter. Now I just want to drive
it
> >again.
> >
> >Gary
> >
> >
> >In a message dated Tue, 5 Mar 2002 6:51:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >"datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com> writes:
> >
> > > I hope the line is not clogged with rust. As I said many times the
brake
> >lines rust from the inside out and all that crud will do a number on your
> >brake seals. Don't ask me how I know but even using silicone w/brand new
> >components everything needed to be replaced w/i 4 -6 years.
> > >
> > > When I disassembled the pistons and cylinders I found rust particles
> >which scored the walls.
> > >
> > > I replaced all the lines with new ones I bent up. Not hard but very
time
> >consuming.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Geegc@aol.com>
> > > To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 1:11 AM
> > > Subject: rotor rooter brake line
> > >
> > >
> > > > The list helps again.
> > > >
> > > > As constant readers may recall that last night I discovered a
clogged
> > > brake
> > > > line from the master cylinder to the junction box on the firewall.
> >One
> > > > lister suggested a rotor rooter and so my BW went to the local OSH
to
> >buy
> > > > some cable that would fit in the tube.
> > > >
> > > > When she got it home we hooked the cable up to the drill and fed it
> >into
> > > the
> > > > tube. Lo and behold, it worked and the obstruction was cleared.
One
> > > thing I
> > > > discovered, it helps to have some extra rubber or a metal tube to
run
> >the
> > > > cable through to keep it from twisting onto itself as you feed it
into
> >the
> > > > brake line.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks again to Fred Schroeder for his suggestion.
> > > >
> > > > Now I have only another week or so of greasy evenings before I try
to
> > > start
> > > > the beast.
> > > >
> > > > Gary C
> > > > 1966 1600
> > > > 1968 2000
> > > >
> > > > /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
> > > > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or go to
> > > > /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> > > > /// Send list postings to datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> >
> >/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
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> >
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
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