Quite right you are! Volts are not the same as amps. I don't worry about
any problems with the loads on the system. I have the Boone EI distributor
and just the normal lights, wipers, etc for the rest of the car... no insane
stereo system in that car, so no heavy draws on the alternator. Brand
new wiring harness in there after a meltdown with a shorted out original
style alternator. So far, I haven't felt any overheated wires in normal
operation... and yes, I check regularly! :)
And the amp gauge is protected on each wire going into the guage. I didn't
feel like enriching a vender yet again with another $50 guage.
Thanks for the info though! I wish I would have found a lot of this info a
year ago!
Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: Ronnie Day <ronday@attbi.com>
To: Roadster List <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: alternator conversion help
> >Eric Frisbee
>
> > Great info on the alternators, but... Doesn't the voltage regulator
prevent
> > the full 60 amps from hitting your wiring harness? As I understand the
> > regulator, it sends only what is required by the electrical load. As
to
> > the amp guage not working, I have to disagree. Mine works perfectly,
> > although only up to 30 amps which it would rarely hit, unless I have a
dead
> > battery. I have a pair of 30 amp fuses protecting my relatively
fragile
> > amp guage as well. As to the wiring. I am using a stock harness
on
> > the '67 and just hook up the white wire to my AC Delco, with a line run
to
> > #2 post on the alternator. No problems with that set up and it's got
about
> > 6 months of a 160 mile daily drive on it.
>
> No. Voltage (volts) and current (amps) are different critters. Voltage is
> pressure, current is flow. The voltage regulator does nothing regarding
> current. The alternator will supply it's rated current at its specified
> voltage. That's why you should at least use an additional, larger, wire to
> connect the higher output of the new alternator to the battery.
>
> You've been lucky that the loads you've put on the system haven't exceeded
> the ability of the stock harness to carry the load. As an electrical load
> increases the current it draws increases. If the wire (wires actually -
both
> power and ground have to be properly sized) can carry the needed current,
> fine, if not, then it'll try anyway. But the wire(s) start to heat up
since
> it really can't carry the load comfortably. If the wire gets hot enough,
the
> insulation melts, exposing the conductor. Even if the insulation doesn't
> melt, the heat tends to "cook" it, making it brittle and prone to
cracking.
>
> How are the two 30 amp fuses installed in the ammeter? If you have one on
> each wire going to and from the ammeter, then yes, you have the circuit
> fused for 30 amps, but if they're both in parallel (not series) on the
> supply side of the gauge, then you are exposing the gauge to 60 amps.
>
> HTH, Ron
>
> Ronnie Day
> ronday@attbi.com
> Dallas/Ft. Worth
> '71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
> '73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
>
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