With 3" offset and the cantelever slicks you get
rubbing on wheel lock going left and right. I run R33
in front and R45 in rear most of the time. On concrete
I'll get 50-80 runs or so on the front with NO MORE
THAN 1.5 deg neg camber on a concrete surface. Any
more than that and the inside edge goes away after
about 30 runs. This is with 1/8 Total Toe out on the
front, Nismo racing springs and GOOD wheel bearings.
Check your wheel bearings after every other event. The
extra strain the slicks put on the car is incredible.
Also, make sure to check the alignment bolts on the
upper a-arms. I put bolts through with mylock nuts on
the abckside to keep them inplace. I use washers for
spaces and not the little slip in shims. If you are
racing on asphalt, I recommend going to 1 deg neg
camber. this gets the tire down on the ground earlier
into the corner to allow more entry speed. If the
track is fast and loose, I'll take off the front sway
bar to get the rear to be a little happy. If it is
tight, I'll put the front bar on and make sure the
rear bar is tight. Makes the car tight and it wants to
push a little but the rear end grabs very hard coming
out of corners.
Just some random thoughts.
Don Miller
68 turbo V-6
Meridian, ID
--- Andy Cost <andycost@att.net> wrote:
> I want to run 13 x 7" with 3" backspace. R & S
> racing
>
http://www.rsracing.com/rscatalog/asppages/rt-discount.asp
> shows some 20 x 9.5 X 13 hoosier slicks for $96 in
> R45 compound. Did you
> have any troubles with the front tires rubbing the
> swaybar or anything else?
> Have you tried different types of slicks and can
> help me determine the best
> ones? I would like to get a set that will last 20
> autocrosses, but 10-15
> autocrosses would be alright. Are the Goodyears any
> better than the
> Hoosiers? I have found some wheels on sale too.
> They have the wrong bolt
> circle, but I think I can drill them for the right
> pattern. They are 13x 7
> with 3" backspace. Item number 75a.
>
http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/DIAMONDRacingWheels/close-ou.htm
> Any opinoins or advice would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
>
> Andy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Miller" <turbospl311@yahoo.com>
> To: <andycost@att.net>;
> <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 11:59 AM
> Subject: Re: 13" wheels
>
>
> > I have been runnig 13" wheels on the Turbo Roaster
> now
> > for 2.5 years. I did it by milling 5/16" from the
> > outside diameter of the rotors and slotting the
> > mounting holes 3/16" outward on the caliper. This
> > allows them to slide towards the whell hub. I ran
> 13x7
> > wheels with 2 3/4 backspace. I could run wheels
> with 3
> > 1/2 back space but needed 1/2" spacers to do it. I
> > currently run 13x7 wheels with 1" backspace to
> > increase the front track to match the rear which
> runs
> > 13x10 with 2" backspace.
> >
> > New setup for next season of racing is 13x10 with
> 2"
> > backspace for the front and 13x14 with 7"
> backspace
> > for the rear to work better on the Ford 8.8 rear
> end I
> > just installed.
> >
> > Don Miller
> > 68 turbo V-6
> > Meridian, ID
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <andycost@att.net>
> > > To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2001 8:19 AM
> > > Subject: 13" wheels
> > >
> > >
> > > > Does anybody have pictures or a description of
> the
> > > > modifications required to the brake calipers
> for a
> > > 13"
> > > > wheel install? Are there other modifications
> > > required?
> > > > See pictures of my new project at
> > > >
> > > > http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?
> > > > u=1620884&a=14035470&f=0
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Andy
> > Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site
> hosting, just $8.95/month.
> > http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
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