Generally aluminum cylinders are not considered rebuildable. 9 times out of 10
the rebuild will last only a few months or less. The reason is that the bore on
an aluminum cylinder is hard anodized. Wear and/or honing will usually eat
through the anodizing in at least some spots. This will lead to a leak rather
quickly. It's almost always smarter just to replace the cylinder if it needs
rebuilding, or to have it sleeved with brass or stainless and then rebuild it.
If the cylinder is NLA new than resleeving makes sense. Otherwise it is cheaper
to just buy a new cylinder most times. Beware the shop that is willing to
rebuild an aluminum master cylinder. Unless there is an overriding reason to do
so, it isn't good business. I for one would run, not walk, away from most any
shop that would be willing to do it. Does it work now and then? Yep. Is it a
good idea? Nope.
Russell Southwell wrote:
>
> I bought a couple of master cyl kits on Ebay,to repair my leaking one in
> my 70 1600. since i had one out of a 69 2L i tore it apart and thats
> when i found not all
> 5/8 cyl are the same my kit # k-c320-001 fits 2 of my cylinders( the
> short nabco)
> but there is also a long nabco cyl that has a screw in the bottom that
> holds the plunger in the cyl. so make sure you know what type cyl you
> have before you get a kit. I was luky enough to have 4 parts cars.
> Russ Southwell
>
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--
Marc Sayer
82 280ZXT
71 510 2.5 Trans Am vintage racer
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