I'm back to my stroker project after working on several cars this summer. I
too would like to use the 1600 due to our altitude. Tom, what needles and
nozzels to you recommend? Can I get these through nissan or a vendor?
thanks
Mike Koken
70 degreees plus in Colo. Springs Today
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Walter" <twalter@austin.rr.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2001 4:27 AM
Subject: Stroker "R20" with smaller carbs.....
> Adam,
>
> The "R20" will add a good bottom end torque. Keep the stock
> R16 carbs (which will need to be rejetted with a new needle),
> and you will have a very nice street car for around town. Yes,
> it will run out of breath around 5,500 rpm. Most of my street
> driving was around 1,500 to 3,500 rpm. With the higher torque
> you will not need to down shift as early, and it makes for a
> nice fun street car! Go for it!
>
> Tom
>
>
> Adam Bradley wrote:
>
> > That's my point. I don't want to buy different carbs (~$600) and port
> > the intake and head (who knows how much?) if I can get SOME advantage
> > (faster off the line, faster acceleration to 60, etc.) by stroking the
> > motor. The rest can come later.
> >
> > --- datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >>Buy a used U20 crank and rods. You'll have to have the snout machined
> >>but
> >>way cheaper than trying to buy a new H20 crank and rods.
> >>
> >>You should also use U20 carbs and port the intake manifold and head.
> >>I don't
> >>think the 1600 carbs will pull enough air at higher RPMs.
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
> >>To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >>Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 10:13 PM
> >>Subject: IF the tranny has to come out...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>I haven't checked the countershaft bearings yet, but if I have to
> >>>
> >>pull
> >>
> >>>the tranny to replace the bearings, then I should also replace the
> >>>leaking engine rear main seal.
> >>>
> >>>If I replace the rear main seal, I also have to pull the
> >>>
> >>crankshaft,
> >>
> >>>right? To pull the crankshaft, I have to pull the pan, which means
> >>>
> >>I
> >>
> >>>can easily replace the oil pump. I'll also have to pull off the
> >>>
> >>timing
> >>
> >>>chain to get the crankshaft out, right? So I might as well replace
> >>>
> >>the
> >>
> >>>timing components.
> >>>
> >>>I have no reason to believe the camshaft is bad (or the crankshaft
> >>>
> >>or
> >>
> >>>timing gears/chain, for the matter) but if I'm that deep in the
> >>>
> >>engine,
> >>
> >>>I should have the camshaft checked, right?
> >>>
> >>>If I go that far, I'm already most of the way into an engine
> >>>
> >>rebuild.
> >>
> >>>If I'm going to go that far, I'd rather turn it into an H20, if
> >>>
> >>there's
> >>
> >>>any advantage to that without modifying the camshaft/head/carbs.
> >>>
> >>>So I guess my question is - If I have to disassemble the engine to
> >>>replace the rear main seal, would it behoove me to get H20
> >>>
> >>internals,
> >>
> >>>and would I gain anything by doing that? Should I stop in my local
> >>>Nissan or Komatsu forklift dealer and ask for an H20 crankshaft,
> >>>pistons, connecting rods and timing chain/gears? Is an H20 oil
> >>>
> >>pump
> >>
> >>>the same as an R16 oil pump?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>=====
> >>>Adam
> >>>'70 1600 SPL311-28181
> >>>http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> >>>Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> >>>http://personals.yahoo.com
> >>>
> >>>///
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> >>>///
> >>>
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> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Adam
> > '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> > http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> > http://personals.yahoo.com
> >
> > ///
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>
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