Adam,
The "R20" will add a good bottom end torque. Keep the stock
R16 carbs (which will need to be rejetted with a new needle),
and you will have a very nice street car for around town. Yes,
it will run out of breath around 5,500 rpm. Most of my street
driving was around 1,500 to 3,500 rpm. With the higher torque
you will not need to down shift as early, and it makes for a
nice fun street car! Go for it!
Tom
Adam Bradley wrote:
> That's my point. I don't want to buy different carbs (~$600) and port
> the intake and head (who knows how much?) if I can get SOME advantage
> (faster off the line, faster acceleration to 60, etc.) by stroking the
> motor. The rest can come later.
>
> --- datsunmike <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>Buy a used U20 crank and rods. You'll have to have the snout machined
>>but
>>way cheaper than trying to buy a new H20 crank and rods.
>>
>>You should also use U20 carbs and port the intake manifold and head.
>>I don't
>>think the 1600 carbs will pull enough air at higher RPMs.
>>
>>Mike
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Adam Bradley" <ambradley@yahoo.com>
>>To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 10:13 PM
>>Subject: IF the tranny has to come out...
>>
>>
>>
>>>I haven't checked the countershaft bearings yet, but if I have to
>>>
>>pull
>>
>>>the tranny to replace the bearings, then I should also replace the
>>>leaking engine rear main seal.
>>>
>>>If I replace the rear main seal, I also have to pull the
>>>
>>crankshaft,
>>
>>>right? To pull the crankshaft, I have to pull the pan, which means
>>>
>>I
>>
>>>can easily replace the oil pump. I'll also have to pull off the
>>>
>>timing
>>
>>>chain to get the crankshaft out, right? So I might as well replace
>>>
>>the
>>
>>>timing components.
>>>
>>>I have no reason to believe the camshaft is bad (or the crankshaft
>>>
>>or
>>
>>>timing gears/chain, for the matter) but if I'm that deep in the
>>>
>>engine,
>>
>>>I should have the camshaft checked, right?
>>>
>>>If I go that far, I'm already most of the way into an engine
>>>
>>rebuild.
>>
>>>If I'm going to go that far, I'd rather turn it into an H20, if
>>>
>>there's
>>
>>>any advantage to that without modifying the camshaft/head/carbs.
>>>
>>>So I guess my question is - If I have to disassemble the engine to
>>>replace the rear main seal, would it behoove me to get H20
>>>
>>internals,
>>
>>>and would I gain anything by doing that? Should I stop in my local
>>>Nissan or Komatsu forklift dealer and ask for an H20 crankshaft,
>>>pistons, connecting rods and timing chain/gears? Is an H20 oil
>>>
>>pump
>>
>>>the same as an R16 oil pump?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>=====
>>>Adam
>>>'70 1600 SPL311-28181
>>>http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
>>>Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
>>>http://personals.yahoo.com
>>>
>>>///
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>>>///
>>>
>>///
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>>///
>>
>>
>
>
> =====
> Adam
> '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>
> ///
> /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
> /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or go to
> /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> /// Send list postings to datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> ///
///
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