Fred,
If you really want to make it look original and have a way to remove the
water outlet at a later date you can turn the studs down about .05" from
about 1/4" inside of each thread. This will give clearance over most of
the length and allow easier removal of the water outlet. Stainless steel
studs could only be a benefit.
A better overall solution would be to replace the original water outlet
with an elbow and install a filler neck in the middle of the top radiator
tank. This affords you the opportunity to determine if the radiator is
full and makes it easier to fill the system. If you want some details you
can contact me away from the list.
Stan
========
At 12:07 PM 9/14/01 -0500, Fred Schroeder wrote:
>Actually, we're working against a double whammy. Not only do the steel studs
>rust but there is electrolysis taking place. Because of this, I doubt that
>stainless steel studs would cure the problem.
>
>I've thought about covering the studs with shrink tubing and enlarging the
>holes in the housing and outlet just enough to clear it. Has anyone tried
>this approach?
>
>Best regards,
>
>Fred Schroeder
>Denison, TX
>'70 SRL311-13359
>Regular e-mail sitsinwest@texoma.net
>TDROC
>
>snyler wrote:
>
>> Sure seemed that way anyway! It took 2 hours of heating, tapping,
>> cajoling, driving wedges to et it off far enough to cut one of the studs
>> with a cutoff tool. After that I was able to wiggle the housing off the
>> other stud. Fortunately, both studs backed out without a fight. The
>> housing is toast, but it was before I started. The outlet pipe was all
>> eaten away.
>>
>> Marc T.
>>
>> ==========================================================================
>> Marc Tyler
>> Sisterdale TX
>> 1970 1600 #SPL311-31016 "The Jaundiced Kid II"
>> 1965 L-320 #L320 013642 "Domino"
>> 1965 L-320 Parts car Don't name a chicken you're going to eat.
>>
>> http://datsun_marc.tripod.com/cgi-bin/datsun_homepage.html
>
>--
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